An extra FV engine came with my 72 Zink. It is supposed to be a NOBLE but I can not find any markings other than a W under the oil cooler. Is there a particular place I show look for a rebuilders stamp? I am in the middle of taking it apart. here is what I have
A F1 code factory replacement 1600 block with case savers and 10MM studs.
Full-flow fittings in block and pump cover
Like new 373 heads
Nice intake a PCI 28 carb with a rebuilders stamp "R" painted on in white
Pistons have 2-piece top and second rings with a wide ring and a thin ring in each groove
Rods have been lightened and are shiny of the top from recent machine work
Cylinders still show hone swirls
Lightened and pinned flywheel/pressure plate
Lightened/balanced pistons
Windage tray can be seen at bottom of block.
Crank is lightened/balanced
Questions are:
Are the 2-piece top and second rings the Dykes type or are there other 2-piece.
Is the oil ring just a stock VW part?
Does anyone know who sets up FV PCI 28 carbs and marks them with a "R"
Thanks.
My new engine
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My new engine
Last edited by 1969zeitler on August 8th, 2010, 8:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Roger
Orlando, Fl
car-less now
I have a VERY understanding Wife.
Orlando, Fl
car-less now
I have a VERY understanding Wife.
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- Posts: 288
- Joined: March 25th, 2009, 3:21 pm
Re: My new engine
Roger
Orlando, Fl
car-less now
I have a VERY understanding Wife.
Orlando, Fl
car-less now
I have a VERY understanding Wife.
Re: My new engine
WOW - that thing's been sitting OUTSIDE for a while
.
Most head prep people put a stamp on the little rectangular boss in the center just outside of the manifold - at the center top of your picture. Can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like anything is there. Noble has always marked his heads, as have Butler and Peak Performance - I'm pretty sure the others do as well. To tell if the head has been ported, we need to see pix looking down into the manifold flange and looking back into the valve ports (with the valves removed). To be sure if it is ported PROPERLY, you'll need to take it to a 'pro.
Still, the best bet for you is to clean it all up and take it to a known builder. AFAIK, Butler (Greenville, SC) is the closest to you that is "nationally known" (ButlerEngines.com).
Dykes (or 'noble') rings are 2 piece rings, but so are Total Seal - looks to me like you have Dykes in there. The outside cylinder contact ring is very light and cut like an "ell" - it is spaced out by the spacer ring which sits deep in the groove and keeps the outer ring near the top of the groove. This reduces the weight of the ring to control ring flutter at high RPM. Some builders are now using motorcycle rings of some sort, but I haven't seen any myself, so can't tell you what they look like. IIRC, some builders were also using Dykes one groove only due to the cost and/or weight of the rings - can't remember if it is the top or second groove they use - probably the top.
You have the aftermarket cylinders with the extra fins so that is good. If there are swirl marks, then it's probably OK, but I see scoring on the sides of the pistons - look for mating scars on the pistons. Not able to tell from the pix if they are significant.
No idea about the R on the carb, but it could also be the PO initial or some other identifier they put on it - I know I have 'Davis' written on mine and a number just so I can keep track of which is which. I don't THINK there is a builder stamp, but if there was, it would probably be on the side of the manifold flange boss.
It LOOKS like you at least have the basics for a good engine. Unless you have experience building FV engines for the race track, I'd still recommend you take it to someone who does (and not just SAYS they do... someone you KNOW builds a good engine). There are a million details inside these things that makes them "go" and "stay together" - USE THEIR KNOWLEDGE!
Steve
![Smile :-)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Most head prep people put a stamp on the little rectangular boss in the center just outside of the manifold - at the center top of your picture. Can't tell for sure, but it doesn't look like anything is there. Noble has always marked his heads, as have Butler and Peak Performance - I'm pretty sure the others do as well. To tell if the head has been ported, we need to see pix looking down into the manifold flange and looking back into the valve ports (with the valves removed). To be sure if it is ported PROPERLY, you'll need to take it to a 'pro.
Still, the best bet for you is to clean it all up and take it to a known builder. AFAIK, Butler (Greenville, SC) is the closest to you that is "nationally known" (ButlerEngines.com).
Dykes (or 'noble') rings are 2 piece rings, but so are Total Seal - looks to me like you have Dykes in there. The outside cylinder contact ring is very light and cut like an "ell" - it is spaced out by the spacer ring which sits deep in the groove and keeps the outer ring near the top of the groove. This reduces the weight of the ring to control ring flutter at high RPM. Some builders are now using motorcycle rings of some sort, but I haven't seen any myself, so can't tell you what they look like. IIRC, some builders were also using Dykes one groove only due to the cost and/or weight of the rings - can't remember if it is the top or second groove they use - probably the top.
You have the aftermarket cylinders with the extra fins so that is good. If there are swirl marks, then it's probably OK, but I see scoring on the sides of the pistons - look for mating scars on the pistons. Not able to tell from the pix if they are significant.
No idea about the R on the carb, but it could also be the PO initial or some other identifier they put on it - I know I have 'Davis' written on mine and a number just so I can keep track of which is which. I don't THINK there is a builder stamp, but if there was, it would probably be on the side of the manifold flange boss.
It LOOKS like you at least have the basics for a good engine. Unless you have experience building FV engines for the race track, I'd still recommend you take it to someone who does (and not just SAYS they do... someone you KNOW builds a good engine). There are a million details inside these things that makes them "go" and "stay together" - USE THEIR KNOWLEDGE!
Steve
The Racer's Wedge and now a Vortech, FV80
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Re: My new engine
Listen to Stevan. In the '70's he told me to get with a good engine builder. Being a "do-it-myself'er", it only took me 25 years to get to the point where I felt we did a decent job. I've always been impressed with Rollins stuff...it makes power AND stays together.
It doesn't look like the pistons have been cut, but not sure.
We did experiment with rings..left the second ring off cuz it's just an oil scraper. Man did that thing run, but couldn't keep oil in it. ..turned it upside down, and that worked great. We never changed the oil ring, only the top ring.
Heads, manifold, carb..black magic stuff..most work ok, but a few are exceptional.
Remember, to finish first you must first finish! Forget the gorilla motor, get one that is decent and never fails.
It doesn't look like the pistons have been cut, but not sure.
We did experiment with rings..left the second ring off cuz it's just an oil scraper. Man did that thing run, but couldn't keep oil in it. ..turned it upside down, and that worked great. We never changed the oil ring, only the top ring.
Heads, manifold, carb..black magic stuff..most work ok, but a few are exceptional.
Remember, to finish first you must first finish! Forget the gorilla motor, get one that is decent and never fails.
Re: My new engine
The true analysis of an engine's condition will require a bit more measuring but given the rust in the pictures I would suspect the P&Cylinders are throw a ways. The case is an old style with lower oil flow anfd if the crank bores are true, it's serviceable. I heartily support those who say you should take the motor to a known builder. The savings in getting it right the first time is considerable considering it's costs at least $500 a weekend to run.
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.
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Re: My new engine
Put another way: It is costing $3-4 a MINUTE to race! How much engine trouble can you afford at those prices? Do you see the trade off?
Brian
Brian