Is there a simple way to determine if a spindle has offset bushings? I pulled one side on my "new-to-me" Caracal and found 14 shims on the inside of the lower link pin (and I think the pin is bent) so I'm guessing I have stock bushings. The camber is about -1deg if I remember correctly.
Thanks, Mike
Offset camber bushings
Re: Offset camber bushings
Without offset bushings, you will not get much more than 1 degree negative. Maybe 1.25 max. If you have the offset bushings, 1.5 should be easily attainable.
I have run with both. Depending on how your car is set up, you may not need more than 1-1.25 degrees.
If all you have is 1 degree with 14 shims on the bottom, and I assume not nearly as many on the bottom inside, you likely have standard. Are you having a handling problem? If not, you may not want to change them. If you have a push, or something like bad outside edge tire wear, then you may want to change them.
I have run with both. Depending on how your car is set up, you may not need more than 1-1.25 degrees.
If all you have is 1 degree with 14 shims on the bottom, and I assume not nearly as many on the bottom inside, you likely have standard. Are you having a handling problem? If not, you may not want to change them. If you have a push, or something like bad outside edge tire wear, then you may want to change them.
Stephen Saslow
FV 09 NWR
FV 09 NWR
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Re: Offset camber bushings
If the spindle assembly is off the car, you can tell just by looking at the installed bushings. Just look where the shims sit. If the linkpin holes are centered then your bushings are standard. If the hole is off center, then you probably have offset bushings. The offset will be reversed on each end of the bushing which should help you make up your mind. Often there will be a pt or notch to indicate the proper direction of offset for a confused installer.
Greg Rice
"Happy 50th Birthday"
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Re: Offset camber bushings
install one of the link pins, if it is perpendicular with the carrier, the bushing are stock. If the pin goes trough on an angle you have offset bushings.-
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.
Re: Offset camber bushings
On closer inspection it is obvious that they are offset so my recollection of the camber must be bad. Guess I'm getting too dependent on the forum to actually figure stuff out for myself. I don't have a handling issue but the bottom pin was so tight that it was probably binding some. That pin will not slip easily into either bushing while the top pin will, so the pin is junk - I'm guessing from too many shims. Isn't 6-8 sort of a limit on what you can use easily? Also I noticed that the bushing end isn't flush with the spindle so they haven't been surfaced nicely like the ones I had from SR on my old Vee. Is this an issue?
Mike
Mike
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Re: Offset camber bushings
I had never paid too much attention to the link pins until one time I had a hard time making them up without binding. It was suggested that I check the pins for straight and sure enough, one on each side was bent. Very easy to do when the pins are out, just put a straightedge against them and check for clearance. You need to kind of find a spot at either end of the spiral groove and need to check on three or four places through a 90 degree rotation to find the maximum bend. After changing two pins, the front was a free as ever again.
Re: Offset camber bushings
To complete the installation of offset bushings the ends should be refaced in the carrier. If this is not done the shims ride on an angle relative to the carrier. In the absence of a mill or facing bit in a drill press with a fixture, a die grinder can reduce this issue quite a bit.
The shims usually come in 10's. If there is an o ring and shaped washer, you can reduce the use of one washer. I generally don't run the o ring and spacer. Before you add shims, make sure the carrier will fit over the turkey legs. Both the carrier and the turkey leg will have to be relieved to account for the angle of attack. If everything is straight, I put two shims on the inside top and 8 on the outside. Then fill the gap on the bottom with how many shims needed and put the remainder on the outside bottom bushing. Never use less than 2 shims to prevent them from getting torn up. Never preload or pull the spindle into the carrier; that will result in binding. You can add a couple of shims as long as the pinch bolt still goes through the turkey leg.
I thighten on pinch bolt at a time to check for binding. If the front end gets tight I go back and check out the pin in question.
The shims usually come in 10's. If there is an o ring and shaped washer, you can reduce the use of one washer. I generally don't run the o ring and spacer. Before you add shims, make sure the carrier will fit over the turkey legs. Both the carrier and the turkey leg will have to be relieved to account for the angle of attack. If everything is straight, I put two shims on the inside top and 8 on the outside. Then fill the gap on the bottom with how many shims needed and put the remainder on the outside bottom bushing. Never use less than 2 shims to prevent them from getting torn up. Never preload or pull the spindle into the carrier; that will result in binding. You can add a couple of shims as long as the pinch bolt still goes through the turkey leg.
I thighten on pinch bolt at a time to check for binding. If the front end gets tight I go back and check out the pin in question.
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.
Re: Offset camber bushings
i had a strange experience with my linkpins.... I set them to an angle I wanted and the front end bound up. But, after a session on the track, the front end didn't bind anymore, and the angle held. Any reason why this would happen?
Re: Offset camber bushings
Sometimes they will seat in and become more free because something's loose. Usually, it is because the shims have shifted a bit. Make sure you do not have any play after the first session. I like to tighten one pin pinch bolt at a time to find a tight spot.
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.