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I am rebuilidng an engine for next season, and a question came to mind regarding the paper or metal gasket between the flywheel and crank. In the past I have not used either just some aviation sealer (same as I use for the case). But should I be using a gasket, if so metal or paper? I am concerned about the crank coming loose with a gasket.

seasons greetings, and thanks,
don

Don:

I have always used the metal "gasket" which is more of a shim than a gasket. Hard to get the right end play without it.
Just torque the gland nut to at least what VW recommends( I use 270#) and you should not have a problem -and no need for loc-tite.

Hope this helps
Dietmar
http://www.Quixoteracing.com

Don,
Ditto on the metal gasket. I will just add this:
Always check the threads on the gland nut. By this I mean make sure that they are symetrical, and not starting to look like teeth on a hacksaw blade. Only use German gland nuts. I torque to 300 lb. ft., AND if you are using an early "short lip crank" that has been ground to -.020 or past on the mains, I strongly suggest that you start out with the late style flywheel shims, which have the smaller I.D. and bore them to have .003 to .005 clearance on the main journal. Reusing the original shims that are sized for a std. dia. crank will result in those shims oscillating on the smaller main journal and slicing into it. Pulled one down to see the #1 journal sliced right into the dowels! Probably would not have been much longer till the flywheel left the crank.
Mike P.

As I undersatnd it, the paper gasket was for early model 1200 and for sealing the end of the crank. Later flywheels had an oring for this function. Vee builders use the metal gasket for stability and I use a bit of silicone on the metal gasket for sealing. It's been my practice to use blue lock tite and german gland nuts.