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I'll include a picture of the over the engine bracing that I use. The original Lynx, tied in the tranny with a top mount on the frame. I would not recommend the front mount. I drove an old vintage car that had a "pivoting" tranny, it was a real eye opener.

Jean

Thank you for posting the links on the car and the airbags. Definitely something different!

-Jim

it took a while since I was off racing but here's a few shots of the car in a more completed state. You can see the clearance between the roll bar and engine. [ external image ][ external image ][ external image ]

Brian, where do the tie rods come out? Looks like in front of frame, under beam????

Is there a parallax issue with the pictures or does the car not meet 9.4.5.B on page 111 of the GCR for the Front Hoop?

Front Hoop
Low front hoops must be no lower than the top of the steering
wheel. It is recommended the hoop extend to the belly pan. If not,
it shall be attached to the chassis with gussets and triangulation in
order to spread the loads. In automobiles of full height (top of the
steering wheel) monocoque or composite construction, a steel cap
plate, not less than .080” thick must be attached as a rub block.

One of the strangest rules in the SCCA:

Is the roll hoop to be made taller than the steering wheel or must the steering wheel be mounted lower than the roll hoop?

Once built can you raise the steering wheel?

What if your car was build prior to front hoops being required?

F1 solves it by having a butterfly wheel and the don't have a problem with the wheel higher than the roll structure during turning:

http://www.theepochtimes.com/n2/content/view/31207/

Others have mounted a "D" type wheel upside down - I am still looking for a F1 type wheel for FV (cheap that is!)

If I am a tech inspector (which I am not) and the wheel is under the line from the front to rear roll hoops, then it is within the roll cage structure and should be fine.

ChrisZ

PS. They should allow us a safe way to add material to the front hoop - would bring more cars into technical compliance even though with most FV the front hoop will never touch if the car goes upside down....

Yes, not the most effective rule for protecting your hands in all conditions, but it is good enough. Since this rule was not there in the being, there might be some aspects of compromise for those cars that needed to be updated. This rule does apply to all classes.

1) "Is the roll hoop to be made taller than the steering wheel or must the steering wheel be mounted lower than the roll hoop?" Tech does not care. Just comply with the rule.

2) "Once built can you raise the steering wheel?" You mean once teched. So then you are out of compliance. You could take this approach with anything on the car. It is just a calculated risk. I had the very rare experience of have been involved with the whole field having this item inspected after a session. We were allowed to correct it on the spot if possible.

3) 'Once built can you raise the steering wheel?" I think everyone has to have a correct front hoop.

Brian is a tech inspector. He knows the rules. Maybe he can provide a side view of his car to clear up the doubt.

I know for my cars this is a very difficult area to design. With a very low driver position, you have issues with forward vision vs driver egress clearance.

Brian

Very observant guys. It is above the roll bar but below the imaginary line between roll bars. It is adjustable and I could lower a bit or, go to a butterfly, if the tech folks don't like it. As Brian said it is a design issue for an inclined car as is the HANS device. I had to modify cross members and the firewall to facilitate the HANS. I may have to chop off the bottom "chin" of my helmet as well.

Larry, the tie rods mount to an aluminum block on the pitman arm that raises the pickup to a point that is level with the steering arms.

"if the tech folks don't like it" That comes from a licensed tech inspector!

It would seem there is plenty of room to raise the front hoop if we use the dash height as a gage. That would mean upsetting the powder coating though. There would then be the issue of where to put the gages.

For all of you that sit high in factory type cars this could seem like a trivial problem. But when you are building your car and trying to seriously reduce your Frontal Area the front hoop area becomes a big restriction. As mentioned earlier there are vision vs egress issues. For taller drivers, their the knees will hit the back of the front hoop and any gages or switches on the dash. For my designs I have moved the gages (if required) and all switches to the side. The front roll hoop location also effects the steering wheel location (arm position) requirements. Then you have to remember the shifter and your arm movements being restricted by the narrow body (aero requirement). The front hoop location defines the forward position of the shifter placement. And the list goes on...

Brian