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on which is better. the 1600 or 1915?

or is the verdict still out on this one.

I haven't heard whether anyone has built a 1600 to the new rules but that doesn't mean it isn't so. Everyone that I have talked with went with the 1915. I hope someone has better info than me...

Johnny B.

I'm sure someone built one, but I can't remember who. There is also a 1776 out there.

I was hoping there would be more of a direct choice by now.

Well, my engine builder laughs whenever the 1600 is mentioned. He feels the only way to get any power is to use such a radical cam that the power band would be so narrow as to be unusable. He's not thrilled by the 1915 either. He really would like to be able to use bigger valves.

I guess there's no substitute for cubic cc's

Lynn,
Maybe someone should ask for a rules change to allow bigger valves on the 1915.... WHat do you think? I suppose the answer would be that they will not change until some one shows up with a fully prepared Vee to see the results... I now have one but getting to nationals will be difficult if this economy doesn't improve in the next few months....

Johnny B.

They won't let us have bigger valves until we get several fully prepped cars out. And, I don't know that more power will help. I'm beginning to think the main problem is with the suspension, and there really isn't anything that can be done in that area.

Does the ball joint beam help with the suspension geometry? Every picture of my car in a corner shows the outside front wheel with 3 or 4 degrees of positive camber.

Hey, is it legal to weld the front suspension solid? If you can't beat 'em, join 'em!

The ball joint beam does two bad things. It make the car wider and it make the car heavier.

what modifications would be allowable to the balljoint beam? couldn't you just chop it to the same track as the linkpin beams and use the linkpin springpack?

The rules require a standard VW type 1 beam, either link pin or ball joint. There is no allowance to narrow a ball joint beam to the track of the link pin beam.

hmm... it'd be one hell of a workout, but why not use a linkpin beam and have aggressive amounts of caster? that'd resolve your positive camber issues, at the sacrifice of ease of turning the car.

"The ball joint beam does two bad things. It make the car wider and it make the car heavier".

It cannot be much wider ..... it all fits inside the same Beetle body. It is slightly heavier.

But, it is a better bearing design within the beam and the ball-joints are obviously a better design. The net result is the "stiction" factor that is such a key element of modern suspension dynamics, is much improved. The position of the lower shock mount also provides a more desirable motion ratio for front damper performance.

After working with BJ front suspension for 4 years, there is no question in my mind that improved potential front grip is available. There is also a non-adjustment no-maintenance element to it. I believe that the BJs just get free-er with time and will never wear out on a race car. You just need to get a good BJ to start with

All,
I think Greg has summed it up pretty well but I will add my $.02. You can get much more negative camber with the BJ. I have begun with 2-1/2 degrees this year and the car does not push at all any longer. It was a totally different car. The additional weight was not an issue as the disc brakes and other mods required me to add a large amount of weight to the car to make minimum.

Lynn,
Just as I figured about the rules but I don't think that the 500's are uncatchable... We were running with them back before the rules changes and on Forbes Field. So I only hope that my finances will allow me to compete regularly next year and then to be at Nats to truly see where we are...

Happy Turkey Day...

Too bad I bought the disk brake kit for the link pin beam. I wonder how much it would cost to convert brakes and get a ball joint beam? Johnny, I know you are familiar with my trailer. With the disk brakes, the car is now less than a half inch narrower than the door posts. If I change to a ball joint beam, I guess I'll have to get some stock wheels to get the car in the trailer.

I doubt that I will be able to afford it soon. I need to talk to Race Car Supply about some work. The tin top shop that mounted the steering rack did it such that the toe change when accelerating or braking can be measured in full inches. And I need the engine tuned on the dyno. And Drew's old engine rebuilt as a 1915. And Drew's transaxle rebult. It has a tooth broken off a spider gear. And the guy I rent the shop space from is trying to sell me a pair of Lola FF's. Assembly required.