Oil Cooler question
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Edward Schubert
- Posts: 110
- Joined: September 10th, 2007, 5:06 pm
Oil Cooler question
What size, brand , type oil cooler should I get? Thanks
Re: Oil Cooler question
that all depends on where you want to mount it and where you want to get your air from. do you have anything specific in mind as to location or shrouding you want?
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Edward Schubert
- Posts: 110
- Joined: September 10th, 2007, 5:06 pm
Re: Oil Cooler question
My plans are to fabricate a schroud around the Carb and mount the cooler behind it.
Re: Oil Cooler question
Several vendors carry coolers in many sizes. Depending on air flow the smallest will be around 3x6. I run a 5x10 and partiallly block some rows on coool days. Avoid split on hoses and be ready to spend up to $200. Remember that the cooler will have to be well supported and vibration isolated. The coolers tend to be a bit fragile and will crack occaisionally.
Another note, this week I ran into another case that cracked under the oil cooler stand. Remember, these cases were not designed to carry several pounds of aluminum, filters and coolers. Add the violent action of our racing, and it's a receipe for failure. I've seen dozens of cases crack this way. Do not use the rubber donuts to hold down the bypass units. It only adds to the stress. There is a fiber gasket available or one can be made to firmly place the unit close to the case.
One final rant. Torque does NOT cure leaks. I can't tell you how many studs and bolts I replace becuase of excessive torque. The 8mm/1.25 nuts call for 14lbs. period. The 6mm is even less. If your car has leaks, and who's doesn't, make sure the covers are clean, not bowed or bent, use new gaskets and a small bit of silicone to seal things up.
Another note, this week I ran into another case that cracked under the oil cooler stand. Remember, these cases were not designed to carry several pounds of aluminum, filters and coolers. Add the violent action of our racing, and it's a receipe for failure. I've seen dozens of cases crack this way. Do not use the rubber donuts to hold down the bypass units. It only adds to the stress. There is a fiber gasket available or one can be made to firmly place the unit close to the case.
One final rant. Torque does NOT cure leaks. I can't tell you how many studs and bolts I replace becuase of excessive torque. The 8mm/1.25 nuts call for 14lbs. period. The 6mm is even less. If your car has leaks, and who's doesn't, make sure the covers are clean, not bowed or bent, use new gaskets and a small bit of silicone to seal things up.
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.
Re: Oil Cooler question
We won't go into details but, be careful with routing any remote oil lines. Make sure the hoses are not pinched or rubbing against anything. And, be really careful about which way the oil flows. We won't say who but, someone swapped oils lines on a remote oil filter/cooler and starved the engine of oil. Almost worked for one weekend at Sebring and led to 2 laps and a tow truck ride at Daytona. We had a really nice weekend just, not racing @#$$%%.
John CFR fv42
John CFR fv42
Re: Oil Cooler question
to add to the routing, i gave up a win at Pocono earlier this year because i didn't pay attention and one of the lines was sitting up against the exhaust. The line burned and if you thought vees were leaky before, weeha. I was fortunate I saw the smoke billowing out from my car and shut it down, but it could have been the end of the good motor...