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I found a few engine cases is someones barn but I am not sure what case is the best or what cases are used in fv my engine is at autowerks so I cant look at what I have. the guy has cases that are marked ae,ah, as and some other ones. they all have the 2 pluggs on the bottem so what codes are worth my time to offer him money for thanks

also does any one know the codes on the heads that are worth anything he has about 4 sets of squair boss heads but I dont know what they came off any way to tell what they are from also would be great

I'm FAR from an expert on any of this, but IMHO...
ANY (old) VW case that has 2 oil relief plugs on the bottom is the "right" case. What kind of condition it's in is another matter. NEW (1600 type) cases are going for ~ $400, but I'd think that about $50 each for cases as described with no apparent damage would be reasonable (less if you can get them for less <g>). It's essentially impossible for a novice to tell if they've been 'pounded out' beyond usefulness - but it's unlikely that would happen in a street type situation.

As for the heads .. I THINK that ANY square boss SINGLE PORT head (that's OLD) has to be the right ones for FV. They went to dual port pretty quickly and the early heads had round rocker bosses. I can't recall the numbers off the top of my head <g> - maybe someone else can...

I might not be perfectly correct, but doubt you could go wrong picking up anything that matches this description. You might have to hold onto it for a while .. to either USE it or SELL it, but it's still worth having and I'd really HATE to see it left to 'die'.

If you decide to NOT buy them, then please pass the info on to the forum in case someone else is interested.
You might want to CALL Dave to see if he is interested in any of it.
Steve

Be carefull on the square boss heads. Make sure they are 40 hp heads that have the intake port at a right angle to the cylinder face. The 1300,1500& 1600 are square boss but have the intake port at an angle. Also make sure they are not cracked in the combustion chamber. Look for cracks between the seats and from the seats to the spark plug holes. You usually have to bead blast the chambers to see the cracks.

Dave

http://www.ddcracing.com

If you find some square boss heads, look for the number 373 next to the rocker stand boss.

Acceptable also are the 371F heads with a round boss, but with the rocker stud attached to the head. The ones to avoid are the 371B heads with the round boss AND removable rocker studs ( which really are bolts).

As Dave said, look for cracks. They are rare in the 1200 heads but they do exist. Also look to see if the nobs are still intact on the underside or if they have been machined off- a good sign that the heads have been flycut - maybe beyond what you can use.

On the cases, take whatever is free ( or at a very much reduced price). As Stevan mentioned, new cases are well over $450 and continue to rise weekly.

Hope this helps

Dietmar

An easy way of checking the main bearing bores is to drag a finger nail across the bore feeling for a ridge or bump in the middle. If there is a ridge, chances are the cases are "pounded out" and the bore is not a true circle. This means the cases will have to be line bored. Different builders have different opinions about this procedure and the cases may beyond repair. Commonly, the center and main bearings suffer from this problem and is more common with high mileage street cases. Starting, stopping and lugging are killers. Three actions not common to FV engines. A poorly assembled motor, or a unbalanced crank, can create this problem for Vees.

Anyone looking at used parts can call BRM Engineering at 916-712-5742 and I will give advice regarding the pieces in question.

thanks for the advice. the deal never went through the guy thinks that a vw case is worth its weight in gold I offerer him the price of a new case for 4 unknown cases and he laughed at me I probibly saved myself money and hassel now I know what to look for thanks again

Another consideration regarding used cases. If the case is going to require reconditioning, professional cleaning, line bore or stud inserts, it will quickly add up and may approach the cost of a new case.