Trailer e-track install - best location for a FV?

[Keith Lawrence]

After 7 years of towing my race cars with an open trailer, I finally broke down and got an enclosed trailer. I want to install my e-track rails on the trailer floor this weekend and I am wondering what is the best locations for these.

I have seen these installed about 6 inch inside of the tires/wheels. The holddown straps are placed on the outside of beam and on the rear axle (outside of the axle tubes - between the backplate). I don't liek this as it seems it would stress the suspension when towed.

I have also seen it installed directly nder the tires and the straps are placed over top of the tires. I think I like this option better, but would like to know what the collective wisedom of the group is.

Thanks
Keith Lawrence
Pittsburgh PA (Go Pens!)
1964 AutoDynamics

[JimR]

Keith,
You don't need a lot to secure a FV. I bought a (7x14) enclosed motorcycle trailer a couple years with the etrack preinstalled. Two short pieces of etrack are in the back on the floor "against the trailer walls", and D rings are located and used upfront. This allows the car to be anchored quite well. For over the tires, I've seen D rings on either side of the tire work well and it keeps the tire flat, not sitting on the etrack. One thing I notice when I switched to an enclosed trailer was that the car didn't take the road surface jolts and tended to remain as set in the trailer.
Jim Regan

[Keith Lawrence]

Jim,

I hadn't thought of "against the wall", but that may be the ticket.

I got a 6 x 14 trailer with a wedge nose and I will also be hauling my boys 2 (maybe 3) racing karts and many other misc items, so the fartherest out option may be the most flexible.

I plan to run the e-track the full length of the trailer (all 14+ ft), as I will likely need that for the karts more than the FV.

Thanks
Keith

[brian]

I don't like putting tie downs over the tires since the tires may loose air and the tie downs will come off. I like to winch down the car so the suspension won't bounce and wear out the shocks.

[snookwheel]

I use D-rings bolted through the floor, axle straps and rachet-straps. See below: (pretty much the same up front.)

[ external image ]

It is very secure. After this pic. was taken, I mounted E-track along the side walls to secure ramps gas cans etc....

[Keith Lawrence]

Snookwheel,

Are the axle tubes strong enough so that they do not bend with the straps in the middle like you have them?

I strapped my car with them much farther out on the axle - between the back plate of the brakes and the arms. It seems like more "meat" there and less chance in damaging if the straps tighten up a the car's weight transfers.

Thanks
Keith

[cendiv37]

Like Keith, I also strap around the axle on the casting between the spring plate flange and the backing plate. It's strong, provides some lateral location and also it doesn't move up and down much as the car moves on its suspension in the trailer.

Like Brian says, I have seen tires go down while towing so don't like strapping around the tire. Unlike Brian, I like to hold the car down as close to the wheels as possible so the chassis can move. I feel it's less likely to work the straps loose this way. I suppose the shocks wear a bit, but the motion is probably pretty gentle since the trailer suspension takes up most of the bumps.

In my previous trailer I had very good luck stapping the rear as described above with the straps going to D-rings just behind the rear tires and wide enough to put the straps just along the tires (I inserted a pad to protect the tires). This gives some lateral location. At the front, I strapped to the lower trailing arm just inside the link pin. Again, the D-rings were wider and the straps went out at an angle providing lateral location.

My current trailers strap locations are not wider than the attachment points and the car will move sideways unless I am very careful.

my $.02

[snookwheel]

Snookwheel,
Are the axle tubes strong enough so that they do not bend with the straps in the middle like you have them?
Keith

I had not thought about that, but you make a good point. I really don't know how strong the axle tubes are. But I think I will take your suggestion and move the straps as far outboard as possible. I don't winch it down much over 'snug.' The truck is a converted moving van with air suspension and really does a good job easing the ride. As a final piece of mind addition, there is a camera pointed at the car that I can see on a dash monitor. Thanks for the tip.

Scott

[Keith Lawrence]

Scott,

Your setup and the air suspension sounds nice.

My first open trailer had no suspension other than the tires - it was a solid welded trailer with the wheel spindles bolted directly to the sides of the trailer.

One of the first things I did to it was to add torsion arm suspension to it - and my car never lost parts after that "on the way to the trac". 8^ )

Keith

[brian]

Having tried to straighten axle tubes, I don't think you have anything to worry about using them to tie the car down. If you do bend one chances are you have more to worry about than just the tubes.

We tow such long distances, the shocks can and do get worn out. A very competive friend was told by his shock garu to disconnect all the shocks and run struts in their place while towing.

[Mad Dog Racing]

If you are worried about the car moving up and down, I have seen an air bladder advertised, but you could probably use an old tire tube under the middle of the car, air it up after the tie-down. Shouldn't take much to reduce motion.

I always criss-cross the rear tie-downs. The car always moves side to side if I don't, no matter how tight it's pulled. The front seems to stay in place.

My horror story is losing the car half off an open trailer. The straps were open hooks and when they came loose, they unbuckled. I will not use anything but hooks with locking clips now. Ratchet straps only, no pull-downs. Even loose, the car is attached at all times, just check the straps at each gas stop along with trailer tires/wheel bearings, safety chains/hitch and so on. I even look inside the enclosed trailer every time I stop.

[clubford00]

Like alot of others i have been tying down a FV and a FF for many years. I use axle straps 1 looped around each axle tube then straps rearward. In the front i tie either axle straps or just part of the strap itself around the bumper horns on the front tubes. then going forward. As stated earlier, you dont need alot of cranking on these straps to hold down a vee. Just make them tight. you are not holding down a rocket here.

[jpetillo]

My horror story is losing the car half off an open trailer. The straps were open hooks and when they came loose, they unbuckled. I will not use anything but hooks with locking clips now.

I agree about the problem with the open hooks. I've had them come off for various reasons when I thought there was no way they could conceivably come off. What I do is use bungee cords pulling on the center of the straps at 90 degrees so if and when the straps slacken the hooks can't unhook. Oh, and I strap it down so that any one strap can fail without causing a problem.

John

[Ed Womer]

I have E-track located on the floor under the tires on both side and use 2" wide ratchet straps over all 4 wheels. With the ratchet straps you crank them down enough to make sure they stay on the tires. I have had one come off ocasionally but all 4 stay on most of the time.

Ed