Newbie Tips - The little things

[smsazzy]

I thought it would be a good idea to start a thread and have all the FV Vets post little tips. The purpose of the thread is so a newbie or even someone who has been in FV for a year or two can read through and pick out a couple ah-ha's. Maybe even some vets will see a couple good ideas.

Here are a couple to get us started:

-If you need to check brake bias in the pit or garage: Take a ratcheting tie down and put one hook around the roll bar, route the tie down over the front beam and then back to the pedal. Have the other tie down hook grab the brake pedal. Ratchet it down until the brakes engage to where you want them. This is also much more reliable than having someone hold the pedal down, as the pedal pressure won't change.

-Make sure to occassionally push the pedal down when adjusting your brakes. This centers the shoe. I typically push it down once it starts to rub on the drum, then again when I think it is no longer touching (just before I back it off two-three clicks)

(Pulled from the tech thred posted now)

-Always install your pushrods with the weld seam facing up. If one splits at the weld, it won't leak as much.

-Use a 13mm socket on the end of an extention to get dents out of yout pushrods. (Take the rocker assembly off and use the socket pushed down the inside of the tube to gently push the dents out.

[smsazzy]

Here is another one:

When aligning the car, put some folded up black plastic trash bags under the tires. It allows them to move freely when adjusting the tow.

[tiagosantos]

I hear old glossy junk magazines under the tires work great. I have a stash of grassroots motorsports and Sportscar mags just for this!

[FV80]

I'm sure I have 'a million of 'em', but can't think of a ONE at the moment. hhmmmmmm.
How about...
- be sure to check the universal joints in the shifter linkage for excess play periodically. It doesn't take much to make shifting erratic and unpredictable. Always use good quality u-joints (not the ones made for socket/ratchet stuff - real "helicopter joints" (yes, they ARE expensive). The centers of the pivot points are quite different. Also, if your joints are not sealed, you can make a 'seal' of sorts using an old bicycle inner tube. I cut a section large enough to cover the entire joint and put a zip tie on each end. You can also periodically grease them using a needle adapter on the end of a manual grease gun.

- if you have any sliding support points or rotating pivot points for your shift assembly (usually only on the longest section) be sure to keep them CLEAN. Vees leak a good bit of oil usually and oil gets in the slide and collects DIRT. The dirt causes drag and excessive wear. I generally clean mine a couple times a weekend. DON'T put any lube on those joints as it will just start grabbing dirt that much sooner.

Steve, FV80

[FV80]

Here's another
- if you remove a front torsion arm (turkey leg), be careful on reinsertion. If SHOULD slide in with little effort. Be especially careful if it slides in smoothly and stops with 2 or 3 inches sticking out. That is about the location of the inner bushing that supports the inner end of the arm. If you DRIVE it on in, you will probably just be driving the bushing down the tube and losing that inner support. It may not show up visually when assembly is complete, but it will surely show up on the track. Don't try to 'save the work' (like I did) and remove the entire wheel assembly as a unit - it will just lead to grief.

- link pin adjustment. Check for looseness a couple of times per weekend (just rock the top of the tire while watching or feeling for play at the link pins (and king pins). Link pins are adjusted by loosening the pinch bolt a bit and using a 9/16 wrench to 'screw' the link pin to SNUG and then backing off about 1/8 turn - until the front end moves up and down freely when you step on it (this can more easily be determined by removing one end of both front shocks). The shocks should be the movement limiter - with them disconnected, the front should move quite easily when you step or push down on it.

-If your king pin has excessive play (more than 'just perceptible' visually), then you need to have the king pins bushings rebuilt. Unless you have a 'high dollar' special king pin reaming tool, just send your spindle/dog bone assembly to any of the reputable builders (several are at the top of these pages) and have them handle it for you.

- don't forget to grease the nipples on the spindle/dog bone assembly periodically as well. .. and the ones on the front beam. You don't need to FILL the beam with grease - but you do need to make sure there is enough grease in there to keep the inner bushing and the outer bushing/needle bearings lubricated.

Steve, FV80

[brian]

I always grease the nipples. Here's a simple one, mark all your spark plug wires with the cylinder number. It will save time if you're rushing to get ready for a session. Speaking of sparkplugs, never install the plug with a socket, the chances of cross threading is much higher with a socket. Use a section of rubber tubing to hold the plug and install the plug with your fingers. Always put antiseize or plug lube on the threads and run the plug in and out a couple of times to spread the antiseize material. Don't use motoroil, it will get burnt and chrystalize.

[SR Racing]

Antiseize is a good idea, but go SPARINGLY. It is conductive and migrates. Make sure it is ONLY on the threads and not too thick. You will develop a miss if it migrates to the plug tip.

[Rickydel]

Maybe this thread ought to be inthe Novice section? Just sayin'.

Here's a tip that will save newbies lots of money, frustration and lost track time. How many veterans have seen novice FV drivers limp a car into the pits with spun engine bearings because they didn't know how to check oil level in a vee? We all know how these neat little engines were not designed for the side forces we subject them to.

Oil level should be checked with the engine's oil galleys and any external oil lines filled. That means either right after shutting the engine off, or if you ar comfortable doing so, with the engine idling.

[FV80]

Ricky,
You are right. I always check mine (on a reasonably level surface) with the engine HOT and running. If the oil is not hot, you'll get readings that are too low (I haven't figured out exactly WHY, yet) and will overfill ... leading to excessive blow out on the track. I also make a mark on the dip stick about 1/4" above the VW full mark and strive to keep the oil at that level. The time to check the oil is immediately after you get to your paddock spot from having been on the track. If I don't check the level when it's hot for whatever reason, I usually add about 1/4 qt before the next session ... just to be sure. If it blows it out (make sure you really DO have the 1 qt catch tank able to actually HOLD a qt - and check/empty between sessions), then I was good. If it doesn't, then I probably needed to add more, but it still should be OK for one session.

It takes a bit of planning to arrive at race time with the proper amount of oil in the car. There's also that issue of "the more fast SWEEPER turns you have", the more OIL you will need. Ideally, you'd like to have the level at JUST the point where it doesn't blow out .

Steve, FV80