Engine Cases

[Captain]

Hi Everyone,

I am looking to upgrade my single relief motor to the newer dual relief style. I really don't have the cash for a new set, so looked around locally and found a few options.

As I understand it, I want the '68 or newer cases. Do these motors have to be the single port version, or will the dual port version work as well? Is there a prefered engine code that I should be looking for?

Thanks!
Jim

[brian]

All the cases are the same and the only difference will be the openings for the cylinders. All the later model stuff will require o-rings or spacers to fit our little cylinders. Be careful what you buy. If the cases need machine work, you'll approach the cost of new very quickly. Virtually all used cases will need a line bore for the mains. This will cost anywhere from $50 to $100. If the head studs are threaded directly into the aluminum without steel stud inserts, those will have to be upgraded. Another $50 to $100. The very latest cases have larger oil pickups and oil pump holes. PM me and let me know what your planning to spend and how much you've been quoted for a new case. I may be able to have a new one drop shipped to you cheaper than you know.

[Bill Carroll]

Jim:
I hope your making progress with your engine. What I remember about them is that yes you can use a newer case, the best origional ones that I know of are the AS21 cases, from the 1973 Superbeetle era. They are hard to find, the next is the AS41 very good and more common (if there is such a thing anymore). These numbers are on the lower side of the case, not part of the part number, they are the alloy. There are the machining considerations on a used case. I hope you get it together for next race and I'll see you at Summit Point!
Bill

[BobShedd]

I will add to Brian's comments. If you are just buying a loose case ( not a complete engine ) you probably also need to drill all the soft plugs out and tap them for threaded plugs. You never know what is up inside the oil passageways - I bought a used case, jet cleaned it, assembled it and lost the crank on the dyno because there was sand up in an oil passageway. I drill and tap all used cases that I use.
With all the problems using a used case new cases are not that expensive.
Saying " good used case " is kinda like a " race ready " used racer - buyer beware.
Bob

[Captain]

Thank you for the replies.

There is very little to salvage in my current engine, so I am looking to keep costs down where I can....realizing that there is risk with this.

I am going to check out a pair of engines tonight....hoping for the best!!


Thanks
Jim

[Captain]

Picked up 2 AE longblocks.

Didn't see the bores yet, but between the two I am hoping for the best.

$100 for the pair seemed like a good deal to me.



Jim

[brian]

One way to check the main bearing bores if you don't have gauges is to drag your finger across the bore to feel for a high spot where the oil gallery in the bearing has left the case untouched. If there is ANY kind of lip in the center of the bore, get them line bored. I run .0025 clearance on the mains and if the bore is off just .001, that's 40% of the clearance and you will run a high chance of seizing the rear main. The high spots will show on the thrust sides of the bore. i.e. horizonally. Feel free to call the number on my banner above if you have any questions.

[sharplikestump]

Even though I have full machine shop svcs. to perform every imaginable procedure on engine cases, I refuse to build new engines on used cases. The list of things that change with an alloy case that is nearly a half century old is lengthly, and I got tired of pulling them back down because of something that ruined them in their unknown past.