rear brake shoe springs

[mysterian 44]

I need some good advice on the proper spring set up for the rear brakes using stock shoes. It looks like you have a choice of long or short pins and springs to retain the shoe to the backing plate. I have been using the long pins but think I should be switching to the short pins and springs. Is that correct? On the top return spring at the slave cyl. I am using a 5 1/4in long unsprung, 3/8 in round spring attached to the outermost holes closest to the linning. Is this correct? On the the bottom I am using a 4in long 3/8 round unsprung spring attaached to the only holes at the adjuster. Is this correct?

Second question. Some of the little tabs that keep the star adjuster from turning on its own are missing. Is it necessary to have these for our racing. That is without them can the adjusters turn on their own? If I need them what is a good fix for a replacement? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Bill Young

[brian]

You need to use the shorter hold down pins in the rear to prevent excessive shoe movement and chatter. Make sure you can still slide the shoes back and forth after putting the shorter pins. There's two rear pins available but we generally don't use the wider rear shoes so the shortest pin works on our stuff. Your return springs sound right, usually the spring on the wheel cylinder is slightly larger but shorter.
Frankly, I've never run without the retainer plates on the adjuster so I can't say what happens except it's harder to count clicks when adjusting. You didn't mention whether the plates are missing or broken. If they are completely missing, contact Bob at LRE he may have some extras, you need to tap them into the block on the backing plate.

[MDURKEE]

I have one corner on my car that does not have the "tab" to the adjuster screw. I have not found that this corner comes out of adjustment any more or less than any other corner. I would not worry about it.

Matthew

[FVartist]

The reason for the tab is so the adjustment stays where it is set. You don't want them to lock up or get too far out of adjustment that it becomes a safety hazard. They are easy to replace, just use a needle nose and pull out the broken end and replace with one from another backing plate. Hopefully from a backing plate that is damaged and can not be straightened. I personally clean and lube the brake assembly every time I flip or replace the shoes, so the adjuster moves easily. I try and not leave brakes at a chance situation if I can help it.


Bruce

[CitationFV21]

I had a broken tab and the shoes did back off. I ended up adjusting the brakes, took the drum off, safety wired the adjusters and put it all back together. The rears seemed to hold for a weekend. Toooo much work. Better to get another tab.

ChrisZ

[Dave]

Bob Lybarger stocks the tabs.

Dave

[SR Racing]

We also carry them.

[Mad Dog Racing]

Sorry about showing my lack of knowledge, but I have three or four backing plates stacked up with broken tabs, otherwise reasonably straight. (I'm a pack-rat.) Have not looked as close as possible at them, thought about whether the tab could be replaced, but they looked like they were tacked on. Do they really slide into a slot or something, how do you replace the tab? Thanks.

[SR Racing]

They sit in the groove and then the edge of the groove was peened over to hold the spring in. You can file the peen out and install new springs and then just peen them over again. Pretty easy job.

Jim
SR

[Mad Dog Racing]

Thanks, Jim. Looks like something to put on the list for the off-season, get a count on my backing plates and fix a few up. Not that I plan to bend any more in the future, but stuff happens.