Various Questions

[rstackjd]

Several Questions:

1) - I'm A FAT KID!! Got scaled last weekend and I'm 70 pounds over minimum (total weight - car and driver post race)! I know there's about 20-30 in the driver, but being realistic, no more than that. Fully dressed in firesuit, helmet etc. I'm about 200, maybe a only a little more, so the weight is in the car itself (ie. 1094 scaled weight minus 200 leaves 894, 69 pounds over minimum). I've looked over the car and all I can easily see is three small pipes that appear to be lead filled up at the nose. I doubt they are more and a couple pounds each, if that. Is there anywhere that people tend to add weight that is not readily obvious?

2) - Looking at my car from the rear when stationary, the rear axel tubes are not parallel to the ground, they slope in from the tires to the trans at a downward angle, so the tires appear to wear more on the inside than the outside of the car. I'd assume I'd want the axel tubes more or less parallel correct? If so, where is the adjustment for this? Could this be an indication that the rear spring is sagging? The car a zero roll, with a single shock. (Clearly - I know absolutely NOTHING about suspension, alignment and frame geometry, but I'm trying to learn).

3) - I'm trying to get a more comfortable seating position and lay down more in the car. We are planning to build a foam seat sometime in the next few weeks so I'm trying to figure out how I want to be positioned before then. When I slide my butt forward, obviously my knees come up. I have plenty of room on the right side for the knee rise, but the fire system handle is mounted on the left side below the dash and when I move forward it gets pretty darned close to my knee. Is there any reason I can't move the fire handle up onto the dash itself instead of under it. My impression is that the GCR doesn't really limit placement of the handle as long as it's identified and accessible.

Car is a 1988 Adam's Aero, though as I've mentioned before, it's been modified a fair amount - or so I've been told.

Thanks guys.

[Bill Carroll]

Bob:

Though I am new to FV I have been wrenching on racecars for more years than I care to mention.

1. Weight - Yes lowering the total weight is something we all strive for, however you do not want to remove any part of the car that has a good reason for being there (Structure and safety). There may be a good reason for the weight that was added to your car, often this is done to achive a balance, even at the expense of added weight. You will have to learn a fair amount about your car and the setup to make that call. IF the tubes were added to the car just to carry lead you may be able to remove them without affecting safety or structure, again you need to be sure of that. This matter would not be my first priority, get your car working well first. Then scale your car to see what the balance is. I would go on further but you need help here at this point, no offense, but someone along the way decided to add weight to make the car better for a reason, you need to know why befor changing it.

2. Rear suspension. The rear axles should not be level, this is called "Camber". the rear suspension should have "Negative" camber, the top of the tire lean in towards the center of the car. In a turn as the cars weight and the suspension works, it allow the outside tire to have better contact, it also helps in other facets of the car's dynamics as well. Camber is mearured in degrees, depending on your car you should have around -2 degrees camber on both sides, this is measured after rolling the car forward with this driver in it and measuring it at the wheels with a camber gauge. Your shock spring(s) should be adjustable, this is typically where you can adjust this, usually a threaded round nut on the shock tube that is at one end of the spring. I suggest you get a little help with this, it requires some tools and a gauge most people do not have.

3. Fire system location. You can re-locate the fire pull into your dash, it should be easily activated when you need it with your belts on. The less items you have to bump into the better. You will be surprised after a race were you are sore. IF you can't bump it, that's a good thing. Make sure the altertion keeps the system in tact and funtional.

Good Luck,
Bill

[rstackjd]

Thanks Bill - that's all VERY helpful.

[smsazzy]

I would highly recommend reading the book "getting started in Formula Vee" It is available from SR Racing. See the banner ad on the top of this page. No offense, but you obviously need some help in this area if you don't understand camber. Start with this book, then read Fred Puhn's book, or something like that.

As far as dropping weight from the car, usually the quickest items are:
1- remove any ballast you have in the car
2- install a lightweight starter ( saves 6-8 pounds depending on which starter you have now)
3- Bodywork - If your entire body work weighs 20 pounds or more, then new lightweight bodywork will save tons of weight (expensive)
4- install a smaller battery and use a jumper for starting. I run an Odyssey PC310 - it weighs 6 pounds and saved me over 10 pounds (http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc310-battery.html)
5- last, you could go to an aluminum floor. This should be a last resort. Steel is safer, but heavier. This could save as much as 15-20 pounds

I also recommend salads and moderation. While I certainly still have weight to lose, I am 20 pounds lighter than when I got into Vee racing 4 years ago.

[Bill Carroll]

Yes the book is excellant from SR racing, worth every penny. Find somewone near you who races on road courses, we are srpinkled all over, go to a race near you that has Vee's, even offer to help and you will learn a lot in one weekend. You have a fairly simple suspension, and zero roll, though a bit different than most race cars works, and well. Follow the book and learn how it applies to your car, it won't take long to understand the basics. Get your alignment (toe) and camber set and you'll be more than half way there. The items mentioned abouve are all good for reducing weight, it depends on your skills and wallet! This process will not all occure at once, and I reccomend you make one change at a time, if you find that a single change makes the car better (or worse) then you know where you are. IF you change two or more things and the car is better (or worse) it can get confusing very quickly. Again, Good Luck.

[rstackjd]

Thanks guys - I think I've got a copy of Getting Started in FV that came with the car - I need to go back it - I read it over the winter but with the car in storage didn't really get the benefit.

No offense taken at all. One of the main reasons I went to Vee was to get into something that would be more basic and easier to learn than say something with wings etc. At 50 I'm not too old to learn a few new tricks, but there's a limit! lol seriously, this is one of those things (racing and learning to actually wrench on a car) that's always been pushed back to the bottom of th list. Finally said "now or never" last fall and bought this car.

Lots to learn that's for sure.

PS - as for salads and moderation - down 30 pounds since last fall - salads, fruit, slimfast. (God I miss pastry and cheese)

[hardingfv32-1]

If you want to make rapid progress in this class you are going to need a sharp FV mentor that is in your area. This forum can answer your questions, but how do you know what questions to ask?

Do not kid yourself, this is not a simple car to drive or work on. The lack of adjustments is more than compensated for by the wonderful use of used parts.

Brian

[remmers]

Not to threadjack, but I'm kinda in the same boat as far as overweight. I come in at a mean 1044 running on fumes. There's no ballast left in the car, my dad had the chassis powdercoated and I'm not so ambitious that the car's gonna be torn apart and powdercoating removed. How much of a disadvantage is that extra 20lbs?

[FV80]

... How much of a disadvantage is that extra 20lbs?

Well .. we MIGHT not want to get into this again, but unless you're running something that consumes LOTS of fuel (like F1 or NASCAR), weight is not THAT important. If you're not sure about how important it is, then it's REALLY not important. The early part of your racing FV career should be focused on
1). HAVING A GOOD TIME AND ENJOYING EVERY MINUTE OF TRACK TIME ... AND *MOST* OF THE PREP TIME.
2). GETTING SEAT TIME
3). FINISHING RACES

If you are at the FRONT already and just can't quite keep up with that 'other fast guy', you might want to think about looking into weight issues. If, however, you are middle or back pack and can find someone to race with .. that's what it's all about. Don't sweat the minutia. I strongly say that if you are only 20# heavy at the end of your events, you are in pretty good shape. That extra weight would equivacate to something less than 0.2 sec on most tracks. If you can keep your laptimes to within 0.5 secs with no interference, then that would be another time to consider weight (you might be ready to move ahead). If you are like most 'early birds', then you are struggling to keep your laptimes within 3 or 4 seconds ... and those times are at least that much off decent national times. Use them as a guide - if you can get the most possible out of your car on a reliable basis, finish all or most of your events, and don't spend TOO much time fixing things or repairing crash damage, then revisit weight.

Till then... don't worry about it ... unless you're LIGHT!!

Steve

[Matt King]

That sounds like good advice! My car weighed in at 1054 post-race at Road America, so I figure by the time I lose the 20 pounds I need to shed, we will be in pretty good shape--me and the car!

[brian]

I rarely finish a race under 1035 and that's virtually dry. I agree, nothing's beter than seat time.

[rstackjd]

still sounds like I need to stock up on Slim Fast and celery. I guess Krispy Kreme will have to wait until the off-season.

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions everyone.