Break In Oil Help

[Bill Carroll]

I have a rebuilt FV engine coming, have been told to run 10W30 conventional oil to break it in. Read a lot about Zinc and only use "Off Raod" or "Racing" oil. Went to the autoparts store, after reading dozens of labels, my eye's glazed over. Left empty handed. Can I get some help on specific makes, and models of oil please. I am leaning towards Castrol GTX, Kendall GT1 or Valvoline Race (can't find it yet). This is break -in, will have to learn about synthetic next so any help there would be helpfull too!

[smsazzy]

I have always used Redline racing oil, even for break-in. If you want a cheaper route, go with Mobile1.

If the engine has been dyno'd already, I personally wouldn't worry much about break in oil. Your mileage may vary, and certainly follow your engine builders advice over mine.

[Bill Carroll]

I may be old school about this, as an airplane mechanic, that's how I was trained -they have used conventional break-in then synthetic for over 30 years, theres a whole theory for why. It may be a bit overkill for a Vee, but I'm just going to school, not runoffs, with a fresh engine, and want as much life out of it as I can get. I still need help, please.

[pillowmeto]

If ZDDP ("Zinc") is what you are looking for (and there is a huge discussion around here somewhere about it, and we do not all agree) you can buy break in additive from most cam manufactures (available from summit, jegs, ect.). I believe that break in oil is also available from some. My understanding is that nothing in a normal auto parts store has much ZDDP any more. Castrol HD oil used to, but I see now it is the new spec.

[Caracal99]

Go to your local NAPA store. They have both Valvoline Synthetic and Non-Synthetic "Racing" Oil as part of their product line. It may not be on the shelf, but they can have it for you "tomorrow".

Good luck....
Paul F.

[SOseth]

I would recommend Shell Rotella 15/40. Yes I know it's made for compression ignition engines but thats why it still has significant levels of zinc and boron. It's available cheaply at Costco, Walmart or any truck stop.

SteveO

[sharplikestump]

Just read through a wealth of knowlege on this subject, then went down the replys here, and Bingo.....the last one by SOseth is exactly what I was thinking. Have probably done 10,000 dyno pulls with the last one being the biggest I have ever seen, and it was broken in on Shell Rotella T 15W-40. I ran 3 or 4 pulls on that, saw a good leakdown, drained it, and switched to Shell Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic. The latest reading tells me that MOST of the additives touted for heavy ZDDP also carry heavy detergent which is detrimental. I see Redline has one out now, and their products have always been top-drawer, so I might start adding a light dose of it, due to the fact that the Rotella T 15W40 carries the CJ-4 label which I don't like, but I have not had a problem with it to date. Ohh yeah.....it is also dirt cheap, and you can buy it just about anywhere.

[billinstuart]

The zinc is for protection of the flat tappet/cam interface. This is the highest "shear" load in the engine. The "break-in" is for the seating of the rings, and often a synthetic is too "slippery" for this. I really don't think synthetics will properly protect the cam/lifters without a zinc/phosphorus additive.

[brian]

Guys, with our stock cams and spring pressures the whole zinc thing is not that critical. If you are breaking in a new cam and lifters, maybe. Synthetics shouldn't be used to seat in new rings. Once seated, just a few moments on a dyno is all htat's needed, synthetics are recommened. Truck oil is a valid, low cost alternative recommended by some.

[Pat Hughey]

But, unique about our cam, each lobe operates two valves per revolution...

[SR Racing]

The zinc additive or a good "off road" oil is imperative with a new cam and lifters (and a good idea all the time). While our seat pressures are low, our contact pressures are very high and as pointed out, a lobe drives 2 lifters. I do not agree with anyone who thinks zinc is not that important in a Vee engine. Current off the shelf oils (dino or synthetic) contain almost no zinc. EVERY engine builder who knows what they are doing uses a high zinc level oil for cam and lifter break in. (Even the current Rotella formula contains much less zinc that it did a few years ago, but I suspect it is adequate.) After cam/lifter break-in you can get by with a non-zinc containing oil. But why? Zinc also provides a few seconds of protection for bearings in those corners when you may lose oil pressure.
For our break-ins we use Joe Gibbs BR-1. After that point we use Red Line race oils (or Gibbs XP), but there are others that are fine. By the way, all our V8 flat tappet engines use the same.

[brian]

Jim's points are valid and we're not the only engine that shares lobes. That said, oil discussions are like talking about beauty in the world. Some guys like blonds some brunettes, some like Fords some Chevys whatever. Just make sure it's synthetic.

[SOseth]

Jim's points are valid and we're not the only engine that shares lobes. That said, oil discussions are like talking about beauty in the world. Some guys like blonds some brunettes, some like Fords some Chevys whatever. Just make sure it's synthetic.

As long as the synthetic is used after break-in.

SteveO

[rstackjd]

ok, I'm going to jump into this fray for a minute. I alos will be installing a "freshened" motor in the next few weeks. The motor came with the car I bought last fall and to the best of my knowledge has never been dyno'd or run (the seller of the car was not terribly helpful in this regard).

So, since I don't know the exact history of the motor, I plan to drain the oil and put in something for break-in (one of those suggested above). My question is this - What is the recommended "procecdure" for break-in. IE. My fist outing with this car will be driver's school and a regional race the end of April. Assuming I can't get to a track before school, can I "break-in" with the car in my driveway in neutral? If not, will a the warm up laps at school do the job?

Should I drain the "break-in oil" between school and the first race and put in synthetic or run the break-in oil for the whole first weekend?

Pretty confused here at the moment.

Thanks

[FV80]

Bob,
I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you spend a little bit of money and take that engine to some builder that has a dyno and test it first. It may cost you a couple hundred $$ and some time, but as opposed to WASTING the entire weekend because the motor is no good, it's money well spent.

I think that Jim Walshlaeger is in your area, but if not, hopefully someone will chime in here.

As for the break in period - generally 'break in' on a good motor is about 2 or 3 pulls on a dyno - then several more to 'take some numbers' - then the oil is drained and replaced with Synthetic. In your case ... if you decide to NOT do the dyno thing, I'd just put in regular 'break-in oil (whatever you use) and run the weekend. You'll have enough to do (assuming the car RUNS) without having to deal with changing the oil. Keep a close eye on oil temps - if it starts to go past 220 or so, you better pull in with dino oil. Using synthetic can take you safely up into the 250 - 275 region ... and I've seen 300 (but I really didn't like it, so I got a gauge that only goes to 275 now <G>).

Good luck - I hope the car works well for you.
Steve

[Matt King]

I agree with this and it's exactly what I did with the engine in the car I bought over the winter. In my case it had a Veetech engine, so in addition to having it checked out and tuned up by Jim, he looked up the old records from the previous owner, flowed the carb and intake, and provided an invaluable amount of advice and information that far surpasses the $250 dyno fee.

[rstackjd]

Bob,

I think that Jim Walshlaeger is in your area, but if not, hopefully someone will chime in here.

Steve

Anyone have contact info for him?

Thanks for the advice guys

[cendiv37]

Jim Wallschlaeger (Veetech) can be reached by phone at 414-764-8969

His shop is located south west of Milwaukee.

[rstackjd]

Well that's about as good as it gets! Thanks

[rstackjd]

Dropped it off at Veetech this morning! After spending only about 45 minutes talking to Jim I realize just how much I don't know! Yikes that guy is smart. Thanks for the suggestion folks.

Bob