Cutting patterns in metal

[Martinracing98]

I am seeking opinions. I have various tools for cutting metal including a horizontal band saw and abrasive chop saw for chopping bars, hand and bench grinder, cutting wheels, air nibblers, and an air body. I do not have anything for cutting patterns in metal up to 1/8" thick. I am looking for something to do fairly simple type scroll work. Curves, but nothing too complex. I am not looking to spend a lot. My thoughts are

Low end vertical band saw with thin blade to allow detail cuts
or
Decent table scroll saw
or
Nice hand scroll/jig saw.

Any recommendations of one versus another.

Thanks
Todd Martin

[Matt King]

How about a basic jigsaw? I have a vertical bandsaw, but the problem with most of these is that the blade speed is set for wood so it's way to high for metal and you need a step-down gear to run a metal cutting blade.

[Martinracing98]

I have a vertical bandsaw, but the problem with most of these is that the blade speed is set for wood so it's way to high for metal and you need a step-down gear to run a metal cutting blade.

That is a concern. It looks like I would have to go higher end to get to have a slower speed

How about a basic jigsaw?

That was option three. My curiosity are what are the trade offs between a nice jigsaw and decent table scroll saw. Both have minimum speeds of about 400 strokes a minute.

[FV80]

Todd,
If you have the $$$ and really want to do it right, then a plasma cutter is the way to go. You can get a decent one for about $500 or so if you look around. The edges should be pretty good and you can do ANY type of pattern - without a 'start hole' in anything up to about 3/8" or so. I ALMOST bought one, but talked myself out of it .
Steve

[robert]

A vertical metal cutting band saw is very accurate. If you scribe lines (very thin) you can cut right up to the lines. If you want to pause you can do so, sneeze, or tell the dog to get away, then resume the cut with no glitches. Try the same with a plasma cutter and you'll likely have a glitch.

If you scribe two identical parts and saw carefully, you'll have two identical parts.



When I use my plasma torch, I can't follow a line accurately, so I use it for cutting long straight lines in sheet material (using a straight edge to guide the torch) or for chopping out a piece that is a suitable size to handle on the band saw.

If you are familiar with your plasma torch, and use a template to guide it, nice cuts can be made. By the time you make a template, you could make the part on a band saw. I think a plasma torch has a place in a production shop where many pieces need to be cut out, and then it needs to be computer driven . . .

Keep in mind that fire hazards abound when using a plasma cutter.

[SR Racing]

Keep in mind that fire hazards abound when using a plasma cutter.

Robert, We hardly ever set the shop on fire when using the plasma cutter.

But you are right.. For straight lines or items with templates you can't beat them. For scroling, you better be better than me or have it CNC driven.

[brian]

It really depends on how much you plan to do. I like the jig saw I have. You can control the speed, change the blade style to match the material and a good one will cost around $100. Most band saws are for wood unless you spend $500 or more and most struggle with tight bends. Plasma torches are really neat for thicker stuff but I still use a gas torch.

[Veefan]

Any tips for cutting aluminum sheets (.063) like for a firewall etc.? I tried using a jig saw, and at any speed or blade type the blades get clogged with material (melted into the blade). Running it slow works best, but then I'm left with a ruff edge. I have a metal nibbler, but hate to use it because of the sharp pieces left all over the place...

[Martinracing98]

It turns out unknown to me the old horizontal band saw I am using has the ability to be used vertically to. So for most of it I will do that. I am also going to look at these blades on a scroll saw for oher work.

http://www.scrollit.com/Olson%20Scroll% ... Blades.htm

[robert]

veefan,

Any tips for cutting aluminum sheets (.063) like for a firewall etc.? I tried using a jig saw, and at any speed or blade type the blades get clogged with material (melted into the blade). Running it slow works best, but then I'm left with a ruff edge. I have a metal nibbler, but hate to use it because of the sharp pieces left all over the place...

wait for winter, work in a walk in freezer, or just use some coolant/lube . . . wd40 or whatever.

[vreihen]

Any tips for cutting aluminum sheets (.063) like for a firewall etc.?

The problem that I had when trying to cut thin sheet aluminum with a jigsaw was that the metal would start vibrating at the same frequency as the saw blade. Placing a 2x4 clamped to the table on both sides helped a lot, but the metal still had a tendency to get caught on one tooth in the blade and just flop around. One of our local club members stopped by one afternoon to help me out, and pulled out an electric angle grinder with an abrasive cutoff wheel mounted. After he left, I picked up a 3" pneumatic cutoff tool at Lowes, and never used the jigsaw again.

I don't know how useful it would be cutting intricate patterns, but I just saw an episode of that TV show shot down the road from me where those bike-building clowns were using the same tool to freehand cut some curved arcs out of a motorcycle fender they were modifying.....

[Veefan]

Thanks for the tip.

Spoke to someone who said try a Carbide non ferrous metal cutting blade in my table saw, it worked well.

[brian]

The heat of any blade will melt the aluminum and stick it to the blade. Spray a bit of WD40 on the material before you start, use a fine blade and you won't have the problem.

[Ed Womer]

A plasma cutter is really nice, I do have one, but it is very acurrate and will not make real straight ot smooth cuts unless you are following a straight line or pattern. Ofcourse when the tip starts to wear it will cut funny until it won't work anymore. I have patterns for some of the things but they still are not like a computer controled cutter.

So if you want to make one of something cut it out with an angle grinder using a Norton thin abrasive metal cut off wheel (get them at Home Depot) which is the way I fish mouth my tubing becusae it is fast if you have patterns to mark the tubing with.

As for cutting the aluminum you can use good quality lever snips to do it but your hand will get tired and I got a throtless hand cutter from a vender at the PRI show last year and am going to try that to make a firewall otherwise I need to go to my brothers to use our foot shear.

Ed

[FV55inSpokane]

If your looking to go cheap, which is what you said then go with a set of Wiss (left and right-hand) aviation snips. They are the best and at around $20 each they're cheap. They'll cut up to 14 GA mild steel too - if your hands are strong enough.
A tool the Ed mentioned is a throat-less shear or Beverly Shear. Google it and you can see what a versatile tool they are . Not cheap but nice to have. Ed also mentioned his brother's foot shear. You'd think that these are pretty exspensive but in reality you can pick up a nice used one for well under $1000. I bought mine, built in 1942, from a sign shop that no longer used it for $500. Many sheet metal and fab shops have these sitting in the corner unused, having been replaced by the previously mentioned plazma cutters, and would love to get rid them.
Hope this inundation of info has helped you.
Lawrence

[RacerGeek]

For Ed Womer-

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[Ed Womer]

Thanks to Bob for posting these pictures but I wanted to show everyone what the throttless shear I have looks like. It is from Woodward Fab. in Michigan and I paid $105 as a show special for it. It is OK but I would rather use my shear at my brothers since the throttles shear is hard to keep it cutting straight on long cuts and as the metal goes under to clear the shear it dose bend the metal a little. So with a little practice it should be allright but I will only use it if I don't have time to drive to the foot shear I have.

Ed