Tranny fluid options

[lee]

What are some popular choices for tranny oil for an FV? I've been using Redline Lightweight Shockproof but it's not the kind of thing that I can find locally and buying/shipping quarts as needed seems a bit crazy. Anybody use anything that is more commonly found? Don't read this as "what is cheapest". I'm just I want to be able to pick something up local if I don't have an order placed with one of our suppliers.

I'm sure this has been covered before but I can't find it in a search of the forum.

Thanks,
Lee

[billinstuart]

I always used ATF. Never noticed any excessive wear, and the synchros worked good. VW used ATF in the factory automatic stick shift stuff. If I had a pink puddle under the car, I knew it was the tranny. Didn't seem to dissolve the boots as fast either.

[Frank]

I use the royal purple syncromax

[cendiv37]

I used Mobil 1 Synthetic gear lube the first couple years I raced (mid-'90's). I seemed to work fine but may not have been quite as "trick" as the somewhat lighter weight Redline I use now. I don't know if it's still available and is the same stuff it was then. Oils are always changing...

[lee]

Thanks guys. Gives me a couple of things to look for. I saw some Mobil 75/90 (I think) this evening and was curious if anyone used that. I think I'd heard the ATF usage also. I've had Midgets/Sprites for years and they only took motor oil but I've never heard of anyone using motor oil in a VW tranny. I suppose it's the ring and pinion that require the heavier lube.

Thanks again.

[brian]

I am not a big fan of ATF in our trannies. If RedLine is not available, I recommend a motorcycle synthetic multigrade oil. Motorcycle oil is designed to deal with the shearing action from gears in trannies and is available almost anywhere. Plus, in a multigrade, it's great for cold mornings to hot afternoons.

[clubford00]

I use what the "Guru" of trannys told me to use, Lybarger recomends Red line, so i use redline.

[cendiv37]

The difference between normal engine oil and differential capable gear lube was and I assume still is that the gear lube has special additives to handle the extra sliding that occurs with "hypoid" gears http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypoid

These oils are typically called "EP" for extreme pressure.

Personally, I would stick with one of these oils since the diff in the VW is a hypoid gear set.

your mileage may vary...

[SOseth]

I have used on and off over the years a tractor transmisson/hydraulic fluid that was develped many years ago by (I think) International Harvestor. As it was designed to be used in farm equipment in the harsher northern climates this oil poures out with the viscosity that approximates a 10 wt. oil. I like it because:

1. It is not synthetic (People smarter than me have told me synthetics are not good for hypoid gears)
2. It containes the necessary EP additive
3. It is inexpensive - I can go to my local Tractor Supply and buy 2 1/2 gallons for about $20.00.
4. See # 3 above - When changing gears in the FF, I don't feel compelled to re-use expensive gear oil.

The down side to this is that is is hard to find it in 1 qt. containers and it is kind of a pain to deal with that large size containers. The patient has long since run out on this so it is generically available under different names. Look on the label for HT Hy-Tran B-6 under the fine print.

SteveO

[hardingfv32-1]

Are people wearing out gearboxes? I think we need something thinner than SuperLight or 10W tranny fluid. Is there a practical way to thin these oils?

Brian

[FV80]

Brian,
Don't know of anyone who's "worn out" a gearbox ... however, *I* have burned about 20 axles, fulcrum plates and side gears over the last 10 years or so. Makes the car go 'kinda slow' when that happens too ... . They usually come out as a UNIT - one melded piece of conglomerated axle,gear,plates. keeping those parts properly lubed is pretty important.

I THINK that I finally traced my real problem to the main ring gear carrier. It was scored, which heated the side gears, which heated everything else. No matter how many times I replaced and resurfaced everything 'external', the carrier screwed them again pretty quickly. At least I HOPE that was the problem....
Steve

[cendiv37]

I second Steve's concern about the side gears. I don't see the ring and pinion very often, but those axles, side gears and fulcrum plates always look "worse for the wear".

[brian]

Axle and fulcrum wear primarily comes from the excessive camber we run. Start with virgin parts and may sure the side clearance is per specs. .0014 to .0096. If it is too loose, oversize fulcrum plates are available. Make sure there is end clearance of the "spoon" too. It should be less, .00015 to .004, but there has to be some. There are standard size plates with oil grooves that are better as well. I radius the edges of the spoon a little bit to reduce the possibility of catching in the side gear. Try not to mix up the components and you can rotate the parts to put the better surfaces on the thrust direction. Finally, run a bit more oil if you are trying to run low. The first thing to fry from inadequate oil is the side gear. The second is the 4th gear thrust washer.

This is an area that would be well served with a coating of some kind. Maybe we could ask for permission.