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I am seriously considering dusting the cob webs off of the 72' Lynx. I stopped racing it 3 or 4 years ago after I built a CRX. Anyways I have questions about the rules changes since I quit racing, 1915, discs, ball joints, rack, so on... What changes are useful(most useful).

What are some good parts sources for the available mods mainly the brakes? Are the FST Ghia brakes any good? I know there are a million VW websites, which are best.

The car currently has a 1600, which I will probably keep using for a while to see how this CM thing works out.

Thanks in advance

Brandon

You need to be a little more clear

Racing FV? Or Solo?

Solo

I am curious to whether the rules changes are worth spending a bunch of money. I assume the 1915 is a worth while investment. I know the limited slip isn't worth the money/effort. I don't expect the ball joint beam to be particularly useful. But I don't know anything with certainty. I am looking for yes or no, on whether a particular change is worth making so I can start making a plan.

The disk brakes are definitely worth it. Look at dune buggy brake kits. I dropped over 40 pounds and no more adjusting. Brake feel is better and braking is more consistent. VW disk brakes add weight. If that is what you can afford, then stick with the drums.

The 1915 is somewhat more powerful than the new 1600 which has higher compression, bigger valves and dual carbs. On the other hand the 1600 is more responsive due to the short intake runners. Vern Maxey has both engines and prefers the 1600.

Vern swears by the LSD.

The rack and pinion steering is worth it, IF it can be mounted so that it doesn't create massive bump steer. I had to go back to the old steering box because the only way to mount the rack on my car caused steering geometry resulting in bump steer that could be measured with a yard stick.

The ball joint beam is a compete waste of money. It is heavier and wider. You can modify the beam to use coilovers. Vern and Bob Qualkinbush have done that.

Is there a particular dune buggy kit that is better than the others? What pads are best(or what kit actually offer the ability to buy performance pads) or is it like the shoes where the stockers work best.

Iv'e read the limited slip isn't really worth it and in my experience the car drives great without. What is the advantage?

Has Vern dynoed the 1600, what is the difference in the hp/torque curve.

Hi Brandon, I've done every mod on the Vee except the Ball joint front. Lynn, I think is right on the ball front not being worth the change. My Vee, the way it is set-up, needed the LSD because my inside tire would spin coming out of a turn. By putting it in, it stopped that. I have not dynoed the engine yet but will this spring before the season starts. The last time I weighed the car was at Nationals, it weighed 1012LBs. Welcome back.

Did you spin the inside tire before the hp increase?

The last I remember the car weighed with drums and steel wheels about 1025. If I actually lose 40 lbs with the brake swap and maybe 15 lbs in wheels I will need a good bit of ballast.

I don't plan to go crazy this winter and rebuild the car I want to get it running again and see how the class change shakes out. Although I would like to get the brakes done sometime next year.

Yes, I was having that problem even with a 1600/w single carb. As far as going to CMod, we will still have the same Mods that we had in FMod. They did not give us any more Mods on the Vee, so it will not help us improve any, kind of a sideways move. At least both the FFords and the Vees will be a more physically even change. Cold in Kansas.

I know the FF are still faster than a vee, the reason I want to hold on anything major is to see how everything comes together, whether any rules changes happen after a year or two in CM.

As far as everything goes at the moment, I am more concerned with getting the car back out there.

What would be the mods in order of importance (I know this can be somewhat subjective), brakes, engine, rack, etc...


thanks again

Vernon, if you don't mind sharing: Which LSD unit are using and where can I get one? Also,what disc brake kit are you using and how much modification is needed to the calipers to fit the 13" wheels?
Thank you, Richard
Caldwell D13
Sloopy Racing Team

Hi Richard, no I don't mind at all. I purchased a Quaife QDF9R ATB LSD from Jay Racing. I got the disk brakes from Race Ready (CNC) The fronts bolt right on, the back brakes take a little modification. I had to make the plate that bolts on the end of the axle tube and then put on smaller calipers. I had to modifiy my brakes because I turned around my wheels. Hope that helps.