Need help - know nothing!

[mityfast]

I know nothing about air cooled VW and I am in need of advice/direction to find better performance.

I have started to use my street legal FV for autocross... and i still want to keep her street legal as well.

Performance is so/so but i would like to improve it... I have a single port 1600 with standard Solex carb and a dual stainless exhaust with some severe 90 degree bends and twin SuperTrapps(needed for street use)... see attached pics

I see that racing FVs use a 4 to 2 to 1 exhaust... does this improve performance?

Would upgrading the carb help...if so, what do i upgrade to?

I have a budget of $2,000 and since i will be hiring the work done, it is probably $1,000 for parts and $1,000 labour.

What could i do to improve performance with this budget...or...am I throwing bad after good and should rather start to save for a new performance motor? ...and at what point does the tranny have to be upgraded?

Any and all help is appreciated.

Paul

[ external image ]

[ external image ]

[ external image ]

[DanRemmers]

You could get a set of good dual port heads and a single Weber or Dellorto 2 bbl carb. That total should run under $1000 for parts.

I don't think a better exhaust will add much hp.

(I assume you don't have to go through emissions testing.)

[mityfast]

You could get a set of good dual port heads and a single Weber or Dellorto 2 bbl carb. That total should run under $1000 for parts.

I don't think a better exhaust will add much hp.

(I assume you don't have to go through emissions testing.)

Thank you.

No emmission testing here, for cars manufactured before 1986.

"good dual port heads" Any recommendations as to who makes "good dual port heads"... any specific specs?

[SR Racing]

We carry dual port heads that would work fine. Of course you need the manifold pieces also. We have them also.

Jim
SR

[77fmod]

I will concurr with my fellow responders.
However, once that is done, your next investment should be for real race tires. They will make a huge improvement in times. As a matter of fact, they might do more than the other improvements mentioned. I would like others to chime in.. They alone could be worth as much as 2 secs a lap depending on the course and of course what you have on the car now.. At least, that has been the thinking that I was told when I started. However, with the new technology and development of street tires, I'm not sure any more.

Also, I am curious what the rest of your car looks like. Can you post more pics?

Thanks,

JGB

[mityfast]

I will concurr with my fellow responders.
However, once that is done, your next investment should be for real race tires. They will make a huge improvement in times. As a matter of fact, they might do more than the other improvements mentioned. I would like others to chime in.. They alone could be worth as much as 2 secs a lap depending on the course and of course what you have on the car now.. At least, that has been the thinking that I was told when I started. However, with the new technology and development of street tires, I'm not sure any more.

Also, I am curious what the rest of your car looks like. Can you post more pics?

Thanks,

JGB

Thank you for your post JGB,

I am aware of the tire time savings, since i save three seconds per round in my MG Midget vs my street tires.

The problem is that when i drive the FV to the track, how do i take another set of tires with me?

I am not looking at being competitive as much as having a blast in an "old school" race car...the G Force KDW ZRs make for alot of slipping and sliding which creates a very interesting ride (and amusing to the observers) .

pics below
[ external image ]
[ external image ]
[ external image ]
[ external image ]

[vreihen]

The problem is that when i drive the FV to the track, how do i take another set of tires with me?

It seems like you've already got half of a trailer hitch mount on the rear frame, so I'd do like the stock class guys do and get a small trailer for your tires. Of course, we all want to see pictures of your Vee driving down the highway towing a trailer.....

[mityfast]

The problem is that when i drive the FV to the track, how do i take another set of tires with me?

It seems like you've already got half of a trailer hitch mount on the rear frame, so I'd do like the stock class guys do and get a small trailer for your tires. Of course, we all want to see pictures of your Vee driving down the highway towing a trailer.....

Too funny!

[Bbsgarage]

YIKES!!!!

it looks like your head is even with or even taller then the roll bar.

thats something you need to change, even for, make that especially for street driving.

[mityfast]

YIKES!!!!

it looks like your head is even with or even taller then the roll bar.

thats something you need to change, even for, make that especially for street driving.

Yes, I am aware of that...i planned on changing it this winter... I guess I better get on that soon.

[snookwheel]

I really like that Vee. Have you ever seen another like it?

Scott

[mityfast]

I really like that Vee. Have you ever seen another like it?

Scott

Yes, in the 1960s at Mosport International Speedway here in Ontario Canada. My uncle marshalled there and took me along to watch.

I have canvassed the internet, driver associations, vintage associations and the Canadian Motorsport Hall of Fame, and have not found another in existance today... mine may be the last.

A lady in the USA, now up in her 70s, sent me pics of her Huron that she accompanied her husband all over the race circuit back in the 1960s... it has exactly the same body and event the little side mounted, molded air scoop for the carb...it was nice to see one in racing form...minus the street legal gear of course...here are the pics

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e271/ ... uron-1.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e271/ ... ron2-1.jpg

cheers

Paul

[snookwheel]

I have searched as well. No luck. You may have the last one. It is a beauty.

Scott

[77fmod]

Okay..
I notice that you have a ball joint front beam right? Your wheels are 15" 4-bolt? Are you running disc brakes? BTW, an additional low cost added to the heads and carb would be some improved ratio rocker arms. Ask your Vee shop about them..

I like the car!

You have to be aware that if you go to dual port heads and a Weber two barrel you may have to modify the body. In addition if you get a manual and a torque wrench and a feeler guage, you may not need any help to do the heads and carb... So, you could eliminate the extra cost for a mechanic.. Seriously, these are very easy engines to work on... However, considering the way you use your Vee, you must be very careful to get the cooling tin back on the engine correctly. Specifically, I am speaking of the diverter piece that goes between the cylinders to move the air from the fan to the bottom of the cylinders.

You gotta' get your hands dirty to be a proper Vee guy!

All the best,

JGb

[mityfast]

Okay..
I notice that you have a ball joint front beam right? Your wheels are 15" 4-bolt? Are you running disc brakes? BTW, an additional low cost added to the heads and carb would be some improved ratio rocker arms. Ask your Vee shop about them..

I like the car!

You have to be aware that if you go to dual port heads and a Weber two barrel you may have to modify the body. In addition if you get a manual and a torque wrench and a feeler guage, you may not need any help to do the heads and carb... So, you could eliminate the extra cost for a mechanic.. Seriously, these are very easy engines to work on... However, considering the way you use your Vee, you must be very careful to get the cooling tin back on the engine correctly. Specifically, I am speaking of the diverter piece that goes between the cylinders to move the air from the fan to the bottom of the cylinders.

You gotta' get your hands dirty to be a proper Vee guy!

All the best,

JGb

Thanks for the info.

In what way would the head/carb changes compromise the body?

-yes ball joint beam
-yes 15" 4-bolt wheels
- drums all around

here is a pic of the dash
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e271/ ... FVdash.jpg
- large push button start on dash hidden behind the steering wheel (top right) in the pic
- key ignition lock bottom left
- red buttons on wheel do not function
- button on top right on aluminum dash panel (hidden in pic behind the steering wheel) is the horn
- toggles on each side at the top of the panel with red lights are the left and right turn signal switches
- toggles on the bottom right are the running lights with rear licence light and headlights
- there is a parking brake between the drivers legs
- fuel tank is right beside the driver on the left side and holds enough for approx 30 minutes (so you have to plan for fuel station locations before any long drives)


Paul

[77fmod]

Paul,
A Weber is much taller than your current unit and I believe that the intake may be a little taller also but I'm not sure about that.

Johnny B.

[mityfast]

Here is an update.

I had the existing single port dynoed and she made all of 36 hp at the wheel....this completely confirmed my thoughts and I decided to rethink minor upgrades in favour of drastic measures.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdzcAKBw1n4


So I did nothing this season while I researched the best builders in the area and got pretty scary quotes.....however, i decided to bite the bullit and get a new engine built to suit. Turns out the two main builders around me are backed up with builds for about 7 months...but I have been promised a new engine before the snow melts next spring...I have heard too many horror stories about ordering a turnkey out of a magazine ad or internet site, not to mention the exchange on our dollar and high duty crossing into Canada.

It will be a probuilt 1915 with all the high end goodies, and will be single carb (44 IDF).

If I went to dual carbs, I would significantly have to change the stock look of the Huron rear engine cover...something I was not prepared to do....i may have to create a bump or cut a hole in the centre top to accommodate the Weber's dimensions but the original fibreglass side air intake scoop etc can remain intact for historically correct look.

I am promised enough hp and torque to seriously scare/harm myself.

A new set of rims and racing tires will also happen for next season....I have a truck and trailer ready as my pit support.

And a larger fuel tank to provide better range for street travel too.

Thats about it...oh, my old 1300 engine in my Bugatti kit is getting pretty tired so I will be upgrading the existing FV engine to dual port and installing that in the Bugatti kit.


Paul

[DanRemmers]

I am promised enough hp and torque to seriously scare/harm myself.

It sounds like you'll have 3 or 4 times what you have now, so take it easy the first time out. =-)

[snookwheel]

Can't wait to see the final results Paul. Cool Dyno video Glad to hear your plan to keep the original body/shape. It's too nice to change!

PS Here's the plate idea we heisted from your Huron for the Stalker that I told you about.
[ external image ]

Scott

[77fmod]

Paul,
You might want to check Drews Off-road. They do all my engine work and have a great reputation... http://www.go-drews.com
They are here in Hamilton, Ohio. I do not know where you are but I thought I would give you the info.

Johnny B.

[mityfast]

Can't wait to see the final results Paul. Cool Dyno video Glad to hear your plan to keep the original body/shape. It's too nice to change!

PS Here's the plate idea we heisted from your Huron for the Stalker that I told you about.
[ external image ]

Scott

Nice plate and that car definately fits into the "car porn" category...beautiful!

[mityfast]

Paul,
You might want to check Drews Off-road. They do all my engine work and have a great reputation... http://www.go-drews.com
They are here in Hamilton, Ohio. I do not know where you are but I thought I would give you the info.

Johnny B.

I'm north of Toronto, Ontario, but I will definately check this shop out. Thanks for the tip, air cooled builders are in short supply up north here....eh!