Autodynamics D13

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axel_c
Posts: 1
Joined: June 29th, 2013, 4:16 pm

Autodynamics D13

Post by axel_c »

Hi Guys,
I have a few questions and think you can help me.
First, I am the only owner of a D13 on the european continent and therefore can't ask directly anyone.
Okay, Dietmar, next time you come to Ulm, I would like to meet you 8)
Back ... the flounder has a pronounced negative camber.
How do I set it to less?
Please also identify the marked area on the photo. Is 3, the zero-roll-strut?

Image

Secondly, I would like to learn more about the history of the car.
Photos from 1988 to 2012 at http://www.ac-racing.com (unfortunately for the time being in German)

Many thanks,
greets
Axel
P.S. excuse my google american
P.S.S
Autodynamics D13, Bj 1972
Upgrade to 5 peace-body
Car:
Books:
24 – 260 SCCA
536 Corinthian Vintage Auto Racing Corp.
07-0408 RMVR
No No. of VARA (?)
previous owner: (?)
Preston Decker
Jim Regan
Roger Bailey
Kenneth Canaga
Bob Zimmermann
Dietmar
Site Admin
Posts: 628
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:56 am

Re: Autodynamics D13

Post by Dietmar »

Axel:

Zu spat !
I was there in May.

The parts that you refer to are: 1 and 2 are cross links. From the centers of the rod end on #1 the distance should be 22.5 inches.
Number 2 cross link , the link is used to hold the primary cross link ( #1) and the vertical struts from twisting so there is no preset distance. If you did not move these links, then that car should be OK the way it is /or the way it was..

Part # 3 is the droop limiter and the rubber part is called a cellasto. This rubber part keeps the rear axles from going into positive camber and should be adjusted after the preferred camber is achieved (about 2.5 degrees per side.)

The droop limiter should NOT be tight ( the rubber should move) when the driver is in the car at ride height and only come into play when the suspension tries to go to positive camber.

I have found that if you are running a spring stronger than the original 90 # that the cellastos do not work like they are supposed to, so I make some discs that fit the shaft of a known hardness and then stack them to get the droop that I want.

For less (negative) camber, undo the droop limiters ( #3 on both sides and remove). Jack up the car under the frame and the wheels will drop down. Tighten down on the spring perch ( adjuster) a couple of turns. Do the same on the other side- same number of turns. Put the car on the ground and roll it back and forth with someone - you or a friend of equal weight, in the car. Measure camber. If still too much, do it again. If after 6-10 turns on the spring per side you have not lost any camber, then I would say the springs are shot and you have to start with new springs.

Once the required camber is achieved, reattach the droop limiters. until they are almost tight against the rubber ( with someone in the car). Jack up the car under the frame and get one wheel at zero camber. Then measure the other wheel and you should have between 1-2 degrees negative camber. If you can not get to this setting and you find that you have to tighten the droop limiter more and more and the cellastos are being compressed in the process, then they need to be replaced either with something similar or an alternate type of rubber. You do not want the cellasto to be your spring!

Hope this helps.

Dietmar
http://www.quixoteracing.com
ajax
Posts: 131
Joined: July 4th, 2006, 9:22 pm

Re: Autodynamics D13

Post by ajax »

Axel,
I'm Roger, And I am the one who in 2004 restored the D13 back to it's original design, now called vintage! The vee had been used in SCCA racing for many years and Jim Reagen added the new body in 1992. Later it was sold to a young fellow with the last name Vandewalle, I purchased from him, he had used it to go through drivers school. he removed the engine and advertized the D13 as a roller it was located in the very upper north east of USA maybe Mass. and I had it shipped to Houston Texas. It came w/o engine and the front axel beam & dogleg were bent up, along with a ripped body work. I traded the long box for a short box and found a good used national motor. I fixed the body and painted to the 2 tone color with checker flag design I see it still has. I added the Roxanne header, put in a new fuel cell, rebuilt front end to work, and replaced the rear springs, I re-worked the roll bar mount on the frame to allow a large sized American fit better. Dietmer was a great help to me setting the suspension. I did a lot of events with CVAR in TX and OK. even won a some races, it was a great handling FV with a fast motor for vintage racing! I sold to Bob Zirmmerman in Arizona, and he raced in California area. I see some one added the extended roll hoop, but other then that it it looks like it did in 2007 when I sold it.
ajax
Posts: 131
Joined: July 4th, 2006, 9:22 pm

Re: Autodynamics D13

Post by ajax »

Axel,
You can PM me your email address and I will forward pictures, etc from my ownership period.
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