Front anti roll bar

[BLS]

I currently have a roll bar installed in the lower beam tube. I see on some modern cars roll bars that have a threaded extension coming out the end of the trailing arm in order to adjust the end play. I also notice some shims for sale to adjust the end play. In the picture you can see a shim that I have installed on each side to adjust the end play. As I recall, I might have done this to space the bottom out slightly to get some negative camber. In any event, I suppose the threaded extension is a good idea and I may want to add this to my existing roll bar. The question I have is, since the roll bar has a "divot" where the grub screw tightens to hold the trailing arm in place, which effectively sets the width and determines the gap that requires a spacer to fill, when using the external adjustable roll bar, do you leave the grub screw out? I don't see how you can use both.

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I believe that is some Road Atlanta red dirt showing up. 30+ year old RA dirt, ought to have some value

[Dietmar]

BLS:

Actually, you are on the right track- weld up that "divot" that you referred to in one end of the sway bar. This end will also get the threaded stud. File it (divot weld) flat, take that grub screw and file IT flat also, go into the torsion arm that has /will have the threaded stud sticking out after you install it, and you will find a "crimp" in the end of the torsion arm. File away that crimp so that the sway bar can actually go right through this torsion arm- in one end and out the other.
Install everything as usual, but use the nut on the end of the threaded rod to bring the torsion arms together, then tighten the flat grub screw. There should be a large washer on the end of the threaded stud that covers the hole in the torsion arm.Check for free play on one of the spacers- it should rotate freely. If not, loosen the grub screw, back off the nut on the stud about 1/2 turn, and tighten the grub screw again. Enough tries and you get the right free play in the spacer. If you need shims, the sway bar may be too long or the spacers too narrow. Either way, the shims will help get you where you need to be.

Hope this helps.
Any questions, feel free to call.

Dietmar
http://www.quixoteracing.com

[BLS]

Thanks Dietmar, you have explained it perfectly!

[SR Racing]

Also, you can usually just turn the sway bay to one of the other 3 positions where no hole has been drilled and start fresh from there as Dietmar has implied. However, we set the play up as described and then drill a new shallow divot hole threw the grub screw hole and install the grub screw. If it looks good we deepen the hole and install the grub screw in it's final position. (We leave the point on the grub screw. I like the added hold.) If you measure it all well you actually can just use the thin shims to get it where you want and won't have to go through any of the above.

[BLS]

Thanks Jim. I had already figured I could just turn it and start fresh. I just finished tearing it all apart. After sitting for 30 years it looks pretty good. The drums have a very light coating of rust, should come out pretty easy. Spindles and bearings look good although I'll have to get the spindles checked for any cracks. They appear OK. Nice straight backing plates. New link pins and bushings and getting the roll bar adjusted the proper way and I think it will be good. That plus spindle stiffeners anyway.

Thanks for the help.