Vintage 1200 cam...

[JimC]

I have the opportunity to get a vintage, 1200 engine that sounds-like (not yet seen) a great engine. In reading the spec, everything seems to point that this engine would be good for my street buggy (with re-tinning the cooling) .. but I hear talk of these being 'high strung' .. is that because of this: A VW “D” camshaft, or an exact replica, as specified in the SCCA GCR.

I do not need buckets of power, but all the prep and blueprinting make this engine attractive to this novice. I'd appreciate some advice. Thanks.

Jim

[FV80]

Jim,
All I can really tell you is that the 'D' cam according to SCCA is *NOT* a 'highly strung' issue with regards to the engine. A stock 1200 CC engine would be expected to turn around 5500 max RPM. A 'highly tuned' top dog racing FV engine would be expected to turn more like 6800 Max RPM. For a street application, I can't think of anything in my 'top dog' engine that would cause you any problem other than WEAR. A 'race' VW engine is already generally 'worn out to the max'. We like our engines LOOSE and they burn a good bit of oil. Those things are not an issue for racing cars that put well less than 1000 miles per year on them and generally get rebuild about that often. That MIGHT be a problem from a 'street' standpoint <VBG>. Yes - you can expect more HP out of the 'race' engine, but we don't care much (in street terms) about the maintenance issues.
YMMV,
Steve, FV80

[JimC]

Thanks Steve - that's comforting. I was afraid of one of these cammers where idle is about 1200rpm.. and the powerband very narrow. I know loose; I'm old enough to miss the smell of real CASTROL. I wonder if you can buy that a fragrance to add to your gas? Thanks again.

Jim

[brian]

Steve is quite correct in his assessment. An additional issue for steet use is the removal of the valve guide bosses in the ports. While this common modification is of little consequence for a race engine, the removal of this boss may lead to heat issues in the valve train of a street car. More frequent valve adjustments can help to avoid problems but if you plan a lot of stop and go driving it could lead to exhaust valve failure.

[SR Racing]

Assuming you are getting the intake manifold and carb with it? That is where much of the HP comes from. The carb venturi has been gutted and it no longer meters fuel well at an idle. Most can be made to idle well under 1000 rpm, but not the 500 you are used to. As pointed out here, the cam is VW stock, but usually turned to meet the maximum allowable lift and duration. That part won't bother you at all. Also possibly of interest to you, the intake manifold no longer has a heating casting on it, and of course the carb choke has been removed. I don't know what you are paying for it, but frankly you would be MUCH better off with a pure stock 1600. Same size, much more torque and more HP with none of the above issues. They can be had for ~$1200 new and my guess i syou are paying more than that for a race prepped 1200.

[Rickydel]

Jim,

Since you will probably be running this "vintage vee" engine with a fan and generator,
don't expect much more than 50 HP. That would be a good engine.

Any formula vee engine, IMHO, would be a poor fit for a dune buggy.

They are not "high strung" so much as "highly stressed" for what they began life as, at least while on the track they are.

You will not have anything near buckets of power from a vee engine. As Jim S. stated, you would have more power and more torque from a stock 1600, and it will idle much nicer and start when it is cold much easier,,,,

If the price is right and it is from a known engine builder, you might be able to turn it around on this site for a profit.

Also, check your PMs for a lead on a possible buggy engine.

Good luck.

RIcky del