Offset Link Pin Bushing Orientation

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subrew
Posts: 32
Joined: September 13th, 2007, 12:23 am

Offset Link Pin Bushing Orientation

Post by subrew »

Good Afternoon,

I have a question about the orientation of offset link pin bushings. Basically, what is the proper orientation?

The Story:
I recently acquired the 1965 Autodynamics that was listed on here a couple months ago, and noticed the front end had a lot of binding, and the camber was very uneven between the two front wheels. When i disassembled it, the first thing I noticed was that the number and placement of the shims was funky.

"Passenger" Side
Lower Pin - 8 inside, 1 outside
Upper pin - 1 inside, 8 outside

"Driver" Side
Lower Pin - 6 inside, 3 outside
Upper Pin - 1 inside, 14 outside

The "passenger side" camber wasn't too bad, about 1.2 degrees camber with driver weight. The "driver side" camber was at just a tick over 1.5 degrees postive, and that side was pretty bound up.

Obviously this will get corrected when it gets reassembled, and I had considered having the offset link pin bushings installed.

However, while cleaning and prepping the beam to receive a height adjuster, I've noticed it does in fact have the offset link pin bushings. Well, I assume they are the offset bushing because if very obvious that the through-hole is drilled at a slight angle/offset.

But the big boo-boo seems to be that the offset bushings are not installed in the same orientation side to side. In an attempt to describe it:

"Passenger side" looking at the hub as mounted on car:
Thicker portion of the offset is at the top of the bushing, with the thinner portion on the bottom.

"Driver side" looking at the hun as mounted on car:
Thinner portion of the offset is at the top of the bushing, with the thicker portion on the bottom.

There are also small punch marks on the face of the bushings. Two little punch marks on the bottom bushings, and one little punch mark on the top bushings. However, the passenger side has the punch marks on the thicker section, while the driver side have them on the thinner side.

If need be, I'll try to snap a picture and host it.

Basically, are the "driver side" bushings installed 180-degrees out of orientation?

Lastly, With these offset bushings installed correctly, what would be a good starting point for washer count and placement.

Thanks for any help.

Chris H.
Chico, CA
Dietmar
Site Admin
Posts: 650
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:56 am

BUSHINGS

Post by Dietmar »

Chris;

Looking at the left side (driver's side) of the car, the bushing with the single punch mark is on the top facing down and the bushing with the two punch marks is on the bottom facing up.

Shim stack is about 1-2 inner top and 7-9 outer top

8-13 inner bottom and 1-2 outer bottom.

numer will vary but that is a place to start.

Hope this helps
Dietmar
Dietmar
Site Admin
Posts: 650
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:56 am

bushings

Post by Dietmar »

Chris:

Also, be sure that the shims that you are using are a bit smaller O.D. than the stock shims- should be loose in the hole. Stock shims are a close fit, the modified shims can float around freely (without the pin installed)

Dietmar
subrew
Posts: 32
Joined: September 13th, 2007, 12:23 am

Punch Marks

Post by subrew »

Dietmar,

Thank you for the info on the punch marks. I believe I have found the problem. My punch marks on the "driver" side are opposite. Meaning:

-Top link pin bushing has two punch marks, facing down.
-Bottom link pin bushing has one punch mark, facing up.

The "passenger" side has the punch marks in the orientation as you described.

Also, all shims fit loose in the hole, and there is some obvious machine work done to the edges of the control arms where they fit "in" the upright.

I assume these bushings can be fairly easily pressed out with a shop press, reoriented, then pressed back in?

Thanks again,

Chris H.
Dietmar
Site Admin
Posts: 650
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:56 am

BUSHINGS

Post by Dietmar »

Chris;

Yes, the bushings are a press fit- HOWEVER, because they are angled, the carrier should also be angled when pressing them in and out.
Also, be careful that when you have completed pressing them back in that the ends of the bushing(s) coincide with the carrier face.

Dietmar
brian
Posts: 1348
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 12:31 pm

Post by brian »

You may find it necessary to relieve the dog bone *(carrier) and turkey legs to avoid binding.

I like to assemble the assy with enough shims to span the difference on the top legs. Don't worry about the number as much as avoiding any preloading of the link pins. Then use at least two shims on the opposite side. When you're all done you should be alble to push the entire spindle against both top and bottom turkey legs. It may take more than 10 shims to do this approach but don't worry about that. IOf you have run out of groove in the link pin, grind a little more to allow pinch bolt to go in.

Tighten one pinch bolt at a time and check the front end for free movement. If it locks up, check the last pin you've tightened.
subrew
Posts: 32
Joined: September 13th, 2007, 12:23 am

Post by subrew »

Got the bushings pressed out, swapped over, and pressed back in today at lunch, courtesy of the big press at work. I'll be getting the front end re-assemled this weekend, and will check for the clearance on the housing as well as shim fitment.

Thanks again,

Chris H.
heapcoup

spindles

Post by heapcoup »

Dude, I would just send them to Dietmar next time.
He had mine back to me in three days or so.
Good work, though.
Keith Lawrence
Posts: 94
Joined: December 15th, 2006, 5:46 pm

Front End Binding - How to check?

Post by Keith Lawrence »

Brain (and others),

As a newbie, how would one test the "swing of the legs from bottom to top" to check for binding?

DO you do this without the spring pack installed or with spring pack and no middle grub screw in place?

Thanks for the help.

Keith
Pittsburgh PA
1964 AutoDynamics
Dietmar
Site Admin
Posts: 650
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:56 am

Re: Offset Link Pin Bushing Orientation

Post by Dietmar »

Keith:

Assuming that the spindle and the carrier are removed and the arms are free, the arm with the sway bar should be able to rotate 360 degrees. The arms with the springs will have to be checked differently.
Start by removing the grub screw in the center. Do the same with a grub screw on one end or the other. Either pull the opposite arm with spring attached or drive it from the free side so that the arm comes out enough ( with the spring attached) to free the arm that you want to check. Check not only for bind but also for too much paly. There is an internal bushing that sometimes moves and it allows for too much play in the arm.
Once checked, put it back together. Attach the end grub screw, and then loosen and remove the opposite end and do the same thing. You could remove the arms totally, remove the springs, and then check each arm, but then you have to guide the springs back through the square in the center which sometimes causes headaches for a lot of people.
Hope this helps
Dietmar
Keith Lawrence
Posts: 94
Joined: December 15th, 2006, 5:46 pm

Re: Offset Link Pin Bushing Orientation

Post by Keith Lawrence »

Dietmar,

As always - THANKS VERY MUCH!!! I'll do it today, as I had the whole thing apart to change out the spring pack - mine was bent from the "good old days". When I got the car (it had sat for about 10 years I was told), it had the same size tires front and back, so I think the springs were bent to accomodate the large dia front tires...

One of these days, I will get a chance to repay you for all of your expert help!!!

Keith
Dietmar
Site Admin
Posts: 650
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:56 am

Re: Offset Link Pin Bushing Orientation

Post by Dietmar »

Keith:

More than likely the springs were bent to try to get the torsion arms level or a bit beyond.

As for repaying- advice is ALWAYS free ( but then, you also have one of my catalogs!!!!!!)

Hope it works out . Problems? Questions? I'm in the garage all day.

Dietmar
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