oil filler oil leak

[jmattox]

Anybody got a quick-fix for getting the oil filler device off of a vw generator stand. NOT the oil filler cap, what the cap attaches to. I have a spare, at home, but I want to stop oil leak from this now, at Sebring. Sorry about no pix. It looks like a screwdiver with about a 1 1/4 inch blade might do. It is too difficult to put a large screw driver against it a whack it with a hammer, angle just isn't right. The whole device just wobbles on the gen stand and I am pretty sure that is where the oil leak is. I checked the push rod tubes and there is no apparent oil leaking from them. Thanks

John
fv42

[jmattox]

Thanks, but I MAY have it.

John
fv42

[tiagosantos]

hmm so how did ya do it? Didn't realize they came off..

[jmattox]

Lefty loosey, righty tighty. Placed large screw driver in groove and hit screw driver with hammer. It finally moved. Took it off, cleaned it and gen stand best I could. Coated gen stand, oilfiller device and the "lock nut" with form-a-gasket and put it back together. Will let it sit tonight and put puke can hose and puke can back tomorrow before SARRC race at 8:30.

John
fv42

[tiagosantos]

Great, thanks!

[FV80]

Lefty loosey, righty tighty. Placed large screw driver in groove and hit screw driver with hammer. It finally moved. Took it off, cleaned it and gen stand best I could. Coated gen stand, oilfiller device and the "lock nut" with form-a-gasket and put it back together. Will let it sit tonight and put puke can hose and puke can back tomorrow before SARRC race at 8:30.

John
fv42

There is a special tool for that - we fabricated one but, of course, when I needed it at the track, it was HOME in the shop . Mine wasn't LOOSE, but was leaking, so I just cleaned it really well and mashed hi temp RTV into the gap as well as I could and let it set. Worked acceptably. As a coincidence, my problem also showed up at SEBRING - must be something about that TRACK .

Steve, FV80

[Dietmar]

The intake gasket from a 15-1600 single port works very well as a gasket between the filler and the stand.

Dietmar

[jmattox]

Didn't work! This time I put a push rod tube seal on the threaded part, put RTV "stuff on gen stand and wrenched it down pretty tight. Will try to do regional race in about a half an hour. Thanks for listening and helping.

John
fv42

[brian]

There's a tool called an inside pipe wrench. It fits inside the filler and cam locks into the walls and you can really tighten the threaded cap. They are pretty cheap and Harbor Freight carries them. A intake gasket or a paper gasket and some sealant works really well to seal up the thing. Make sure your case has an oil deflector underneath the generator stand. The deflector will prevent a lot of oil from being thrown up into the filler. The original generator stand incorporates an expansion chamber to deal with the pressure pulsing of an opposed engine. If you are running a small replacement plate with a filler it may be too small to contain this pulsing. If your engine has any extra blowby from worn or unseated rings, it will find it's way out of everything, including a sealed filler.

[jmattox]

Thanks for the heads up about HF. Will get one the next time I'm there. Fix "kinda" worked. Finished regional race. Need to work on sump leak, but engine seems OK.

[brian]

The most common cause for sump leaks is over tightening the nuts and bowing the plate itself. Make sure the plate is flat and square around the bolt holes and use one gasket. Don't over tighten. If you still run a sump screen you'll need more than one gasket but be even more careful not to over tighten the nuts 6lbs max torque. An anerobic RTV sealant in a small bead on the gaskets will help.

[tiagosantos]

Is this the inside pipe wrench you're talking about Brian?

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stor ... PartNumber

[brian]

yep, that's the critter. Turning it clockwise will expand the cam and lock onto the inside walls. Counter clockwise and it will contract the cam. Make sure you don't lock on the aluminum underneath the threaded sleeve.

[tiagosantos]

Awesome.. Will give it a go when I get home!

[NotMoss]

The inside pipe wrench is exactly what to use. When I had the same issue, and had no luck with the screwdriver method, a local, nationally regarded transmission builder and FV guru graciously loaned me his "officially sanctioned and specifically engineered tool" for the problem. Yep, you guessed it...the very pipe wrench mentioned here. He allowed that he'd picked it up at the local home center. Gawd, I luv this bunch of folks!

[tiagosantos]

Well lucky as I am, the ones Home Depot carries around here are not big enough, they only go up to 3/4".. I found some 1" ones online, but no time to order one from the states etc etc.

I'll look around tomorrow for a better plumbing supplies kinda place, but I may just have to cut up a piece of steel that'll fit in the slot..

[Dietmar]

You might try Cip1.com and look for part # ACC-C10-7110

Dietmar
http://www.quixoteracing.com

[SR Racing]

If we are talking about the same thing I think we are, we have the oil filler removal tool in stock. It inserts into the neck and fits the two slots and is driven by a 3/8" drive extension. If you can't get it off with this, you can't get it off at all. :-> They also of course tighten the same way. They are $6.

Jim

[cendiv37]

As a quick fix, you might try "shimming" the inside pipe wrench with some aluminum sheet metal. I'm pretty sure I've done this in the past with a smaller wrench and it worked OK. You can mock it up with the nut on the bench and get the aluminum to conform and reduce the effective ID of the nut to self lock the wrench in the ID. Make the shim long enough that you can bend it over above the filler opening and still reach the nut. That way you won't lose the shim inside the generator stand.

Good luck.

[tiagosantos]

Thanks guys.. This is all a convoluted attempt to get my breather "system" done before this weekend. My old engine's breather had a threaded fitting for a big AN braided hose that goes into the frame. The new engine has a normal fitting.. So I can either replace the hose, replace the hole filler assembly, or replace just the breather box. The filler assemblies are different (one is the stock generator stand type, the other is a slimmed down aluminum filler neck) and for a couple of reasons I'd rather keep the gen stand. If I can't swap the breather boxes before Sunday, I'll just swap the whole filler as a temporary fix.

Thanks Dietmar, I found the right tools at Cip1.ca... They're not far from me, but apparently they have a $25 minimum order policy lol. Might have to buy some brake pads or something.

[tiagosantos]

Oops, excuse my Freudian slip there - I meant brake shoes