Setup baseline help Protoform P2

[remmers]

Hi, I'm Brian, Tim's son. I'm starting to drive his car. He's the first to admit, he just drives the car, he doesn't know how to set it up. I've suspected that the car could be setup better from a suspension standpoint.
Currently, we're running an unknown front swaybar, unknown front camber, 0 no caster (no adjustment on Protoforms, as far as I know) 0 tow front and back, rear camber of -5.5* and bump of -3*. We run the black Penske shocks in the front and a 2-way adjustable Penske in the rear. I don't recall what the rear spring is, but it's the one that was recommended for the car.
I can usually figure out what the car is doing, but I'm not very learned in what adjustments do what. If you have a good baseline or any setup advice for the car, it would be much appreciated. Thanks

[Bob Posner]

I've had a P2 for 6 years and have found it to be a great handling car,better than the P3 of my son Quinn's(who still finishes ahead of me...). I use these numbers: Front camber 1.2 degrees front toe 3/32 in factory caster soft bump,moderate rebound ft shocks 185# rear spring 4.5 degrees rear camber 2 degrees droop. Found that less than you'd think rear rebound works best. Rear toe 1/16 in. 3/4 inch front bar. Neutral bump steer was critical. Best of luck Bob Posner

[DanRemmers]

Bob, is that toe-IN on the front and rear?

[Bob Posner]

Yes,toe in. Dead ahead works on the rear also (zero).can't tell the difference. Never toe out.

[remmers]

I'm considering getting a tire pyrometer to help me fine tune as I go along to get the most out of the tires. Does anyone else use them and/or know how to interpret data beyond just making sure that each tire is the same temperature across the width of it? (eg. left tire hotter than right tire means ___. etc.)

[FV80]

I'm considering getting a tire pyrometer to help me fine tune as I go along to get the most out of the tires. Does anyone else use them and/or know how to interpret data beyond just making sure that each tire is the same temperature across the width of it? (eg. left tire hotter than right tire means ___. etc.)

Brian, (glad to hear the explanation of your relationship to Tim <g>).
FWIW - I have been racing OVER THIRTY YEARS in FV and I do not now, nor have I ever owned a Pyrometer. I set the tires at 'something reasonable' (ask your tire mfr for a starting point) - then, when I come in from each session, I *LOOK* at the wear and pickup pattern on the tires. Then I adjust pressures (if necessary) for the next session based on what I SEE (or feel on the track). You should have good tire contact across the flat surface of the tire. If you see that you have 1/4 or 1/8 inch at the outside edges that are 'clean', then you are probably running too high a pressure. If you see that you have scuff marks past the 'edge' down onto the sidewall area, then you are too low. This varies quite a bit with ambient temps, car setup and car (and driver) weight, so it's tough to tell you much more than that.

Beyond that, if you are within 2- 3 pounds of where it OUGHT to be, then it isn't costing you much track time - work on seat time. The more you have, the better you can interpret these things and the faster you'll get
Steve
PS - left tire hotter than the right(s) generally means that most of your turns are RIGHT HANDED. Adjust tire pressures accordingly. Use tire PRESSURE (a much cheaper way) to check. Ideally, your pressures should be pretty close L/R when you come *OFF* the track (don't let the tires cool off too much on the cool off lap). Adjust your starting pressures to make that happen. Not much to 'adjust' on a vee to change those things other than rear camber.

[remmers]

Thanks, sounds good.

[fvracer]

Brian,

Also, these tires are so narrow, we run so much camber and we get so much roll that a pyrometer is almost useless.

Doug