My new exhaust

Post Reply
jaymzz

My new exhaust

Post by jaymzz »

I don't have a bunch of money right now to buy a new exhaust, so I made my own and thought I would share. I am extremely happy with how it turned out. This is my first time making headers, and it definitely was a learning curve. They are within 1/4 inch each in length. The people I talked to that make equal length headers told me that they need to be at least the same by around one inch of each other. I plan on using some high heat paint and then wrapping them. I still need to trim where the collector will go. I am going to flair the collector so it will slip on. That way it will be easier to take the exhaust off if I ever need to , and also be able to change mufflers if needed.

Here is the old exhaust. It was in very bad shape.
[ external image ]

And my new pride and joy
[ external image ]
[ external image ]
Lynn
Posts: 592
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:15 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by Lynn »

Do not wrap them. They will corrode rapidly from the inside. It would be a shame to ruin your hard work.
69 Beach Solo Vee, #65 FM

85 Lynx B Solo Vee

71 Zink C4 Solo Vee
jaymzz

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jaymzz »

Didn't know that, thanks. Makes me want to unwrap the header on my Evo and check in now.
Martinracing98
Posts: 170
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 7:27 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by Martinracing98 »

Nice job. Any feel for how much it saved you to build your own?
jaymzz

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jaymzz »

When I bought the car it came with a box full of exhaust tubing. That is why I tried my hand at making it. The tubes were all pre bent u shapes. I am not sure how much an exhaust would have cost though, and it was fun making it. :D I just can't wait to start it up and see how big of a difference it made.
brian
Posts: 1348
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 12:31 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by brian »

Even hi temp paint will fade over time. When using mild steel exhaust I spray WD40 on the pipes, and up the collector. It will add a nice patina to the exterior and prevent rusting.
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.
FM4SOLO
Posts: 129
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 4:17 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by FM4SOLO »

Nice. Is that a Lynx? Looks very much like my Solo Vee chassis without the Zero roll.

I am looking to redo the header tubes for 2/4 on mine. The tubes for 2/4 have a 180 mandrel right off the exhaust port like yours, where 1/3 have about 3-4 inches of straight tube before the first bend. The cylinder head temps are much cooler on 1/3 (up to 35- 40 degrees cooler). I am going to see if I can reconfigure to get at least 3 inches before the bend. In Solo, with no tins and no cooling duct work, this a real concern.

I paint mine with BBQ Gril paint, sand and refresh every winter.
Charles
jaymzz

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jaymzz »

Thanks. It is a 1970 Lynx. I am learning as I go on it. I was planning on using wood stove paint on the exhaust and redoing it every winter. But how often do you spray wd40 on them? I would prefer to leave them unpainted but was worried about the rust.

Thanks on the info on length from the heads. If I would have known that I would have made it come off of the heads a little differently.
FM4SOLO
Posts: 129
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 4:17 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by FM4SOLO »

Mine is a 72 Lynx with zero roll. Take the info on head temps with a grain of salt, it's all speculation on my part. I just know that the exhaust pipe temps are radically different when running, and the head temps follow. I don't use anything other than BBQ Grill paint on mine, lasts a full season of solo, but needs refresh every off season. I have read, but have no definitive data, that black paint on the exhaust allows more heat to escape, lowering head temps. I just sand, clean with lacquer thinner and repaint. I see dual carbs, what class/type of racing are you building for?
Charles
jaymzz

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jaymzz »

I am thinking the continental class.I am not to sure yet. The guy I bought it from was building it for the continental class and I think I will keep it going that way.
jaymzz

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jaymzz »

Sorry for the double post. :oops:

I forgot to mention that I am out just for fun, so It doesn't really matter what class I am in. I started to worry about it, and it started to not be fun for me.
FM4SOLO
Posts: 129
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 4:17 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by FM4SOLO »

No problem, I just don't know what "continental class" is. I run in FM class of Solo in SCCA. I agree with building what you like and letting the classification take care of itself, just have fun. I have a co-driver (my son) and it makes every event fun, Old Age and Treachery vs Youth and Exuberance, LOL. I got him the last few years, but he took me by one event this year. Good looking build, keep us posted.
jaymzz

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jaymzz »

Thanks. I was thinking about doing a build thread on the car. The last owner has been telling me one thing and the rules are telling me another. So to be really honest I don't know what class it is going to fall under. I bought it as a formula super vee and that is why I joined this site. Then I found out I would have to do a lot of work converting it back to the formula vee class. So I am at the mercy of whoever decides to class it. I have been reading the rules and it all confuses me. I own a car club and they are teasing me about running in the amod class against a friend with a hyabusa amod. If that is the case then I have a lot more horsepower to go to be competive. :lol:
jpetillo
Posts: 759
Joined: August 26th, 2006, 2:54 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jpetillo »

FM4SOLO wrote:I have read, but have no definitive data, that black paint on the exhaust allows more heat to escape, lowering head temps.
Yes, that would be true that the black would radiate more heat off the headers. I'm not sure it would make a measurable difference on the head temperature, though. I guess we could come up with a rough calculation of the increase in heat loss. Of course that would have the opposite effect that wrapping has where you're trying to keep the headers hot for a performance improvement. There's always a compromise. Good luck! John
FM4SOLO
Posts: 129
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 4:17 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by FM4SOLO »

Performance vs heat is a real problem for Solo Vees. I have found that heat is the real problem. I've trashed too many heads by over heating them, having valve seats coming adrift, trashing valves and combustion chambers, unable to be repaired. I am searching for a cost effective solution, looking everywhere including exhaust tubing design.
Charles
jpetillo
Posts: 759
Joined: August 26th, 2006, 2:54 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jpetillo »

Charles, how about adding in something like those old motorcycle heat sinks on the header flange? But, something more modern in looks and function. That, and making sure the header seats well onto the head so that you maximize the thermal conduction. Agreed, everything helps. John
cendiv37
Posts: 386
Joined: June 25th, 2006, 7:29 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by cendiv37 »

I'm not sure the idea of cooling the heads by cooling the headers is in agreement with goal of wrapping headers or coating them with ceramic, etc. If I understand correctly, these are attempts to maintain the exhaust gas temps longer to keep the gas velocity up and thus improve cylinder extraction, etc.

But I think exhaust gas temp is a secondary effect compared to header diameter, shapes and lengths, and I'd agree with most of the recommendations made here.

Do whatever it takes to keep the heads cool. That not only preserves the heads but also makes more horsepower.

Protect the headers from rust, at least on the outside. I haven't tried the WD-40 trick, but I have had reasonable success with high temp aluminum paint. It looks OK for about a season and can be touched up sooner if you feel the need. If you can afford it, the ceramic coatings are nice.

I also have experience with wrapping the primaries: they do just melt away under that wrap. I wish someone had told me sooner :oops:
Bruce
cendiv37
jpetillo
Posts: 759
Joined: August 26th, 2006, 2:54 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by jpetillo »

Bruce, I was saying that using the headers to cool the heads would have the opposite effect of wrapping the headers where you were trying to keep the headers hot. We're in agreement. John
FV55inSpokane
Posts: 196
Joined: June 25th, 2006, 5:31 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by FV55inSpokane »

SInce jamzz car has a fan on it I'm guessing heat woun't be am issue?
BTW: The headers look nice. Good job!
Lawrence
brian
Posts: 1348
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 12:31 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by brian »

Your heat problem may be an issue of routing. Routing is very critical. Make sure the front pipe isn't too close to the push rod tubes. It will act as a heater for the oil returning to the cases. If it is a bit close, fab an aluminum plate to go between the pushrod tubes and primary.

If you are not running any cooling fans, mechanical or electrical, you will have to richen the mixture to reduce temps.
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.
Lynn
Posts: 592
Joined: June 24th, 2006, 11:15 pm

Re: My new exhaust

Post by Lynn »

The front primaries on my Beach are so close to the head that there is no room to put a plate. I have found that running 110 RON gas results in slightly lower head temps, and it should give more protection against detonation caused by any hot spots in the combustion chamber. I have also added tin and scoops this year.
69 Beach Solo Vee, #65 FM

85 Lynx B Solo Vee

71 Zink C4 Solo Vee
Post Reply