Help with Trailer Tie Downs

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captndiet
Posts: 2
Joined: November 29th, 2015, 12:20 pm

Help with Trailer Tie Downs

Post by captndiet »

Guys

Going after a new 7' x 16' vee nosed enclosed trailer Saturday.

Next month will be going after the FV I bought. (Caracal D)

Since I do not have the car to go by, what style, where and how many tie downs should I install?

Thanks for your input.

Jeff
brian
Posts: 1348
Joined: June 26th, 2006, 12:31 pm

Re: Help with Trailer Tie Downs

Post by brian »

I've never liked the type that grips the tires since they can come loose if the tire looses air. I like to use the h-beam and rear axles. If I plan to tow long distances, I block the frame with 4x4's and then tie down. It will prevent the car from working the shocks for thousands of miles. Some folks pull or block the shocks, this is easier.
The above post is for reference only and your results may vary. This post is not intended to reflect the views or opinions of SCCA and should not be considered an analysis or opinion of the rules written in the GCR.
FV80
Site Admin
Posts: 1195
Joined: June 27th, 2006, 9:07 am

Re: Help with Trailer Tie Downs

Post by FV80 »

Jeff,
For my car, I use one 3" ratchet (could be fixed) strap in the front - tied to one of the lower turkey legs. In the rear, I use TWO heavy duty ratchet straps .. one on each axle tube. In my case the trailer end of the rear strap is not very far outside the track, so I CROSS the straps to keep the car from 'walking' side to side. The most expected load the car should see will be under braking. You probably won't put much strain on anything under acceleration 8) . When you install your D-rings (or whatever) in the floor, it's best to make them match some part of the underfloor structure. The wood alone won't get the job done over the long term. If you can't put them where the frame is, then add some sort of plate under them.. preferably that ties to the trailer frame.

I'll also mention that a 7' wide trailer (assuming a ramp door) will just BARELY clear the vee wheels where the 'load cables' are tied to the ramp door. It's a pretty tight fit and the front hub caps often catch on the cable. Once inside, it's OK, but leaves little room for much of anything beside the car. Plan to have room in the tow vehicle for overflow stuff. I have one and wish I had gotten at least a 7.5 wide trailer.
Steve, FV80
The Racer's Wedge and now a Vortech, FV80
MCRacer
Posts: 75
Joined: June 28th, 2006, 12:14 am

Re: Help with Trailer Tie Downs

Post by MCRacer »

FV80 wrote:I'll also mention that a 7' wide trailer (assuming a ramp door) will just BARELY clear the vee wheels where the 'load cables' are tied to the ramp door. It's a pretty tight fit and the front hub caps often catch on the cable. Once inside, it's OK, but leaves little room for much of anything beside the car. Plan to have room in the tow vehicle for overflow stuff. I have one and wish I had gotten at least a 7.5 wide trailer.
Steve, FV80
Swim noodles - split lengthwise and slipped over the cables. Popped a bunch of caps before I figured out why they were hanging in the trailor. :oops:
Mike, FV3, ret.
gbrianmetcalf
Posts: 25
Joined: June 5th, 2011, 10:03 am

Re: Help with Trailer Tie Downs

Post by gbrianmetcalf »

I have a 6' x 12' V nose trailer. I had 4 "D" rings put in the four corners of my trailer. Seeing my trailer is a 6' wide The "D" rings are pretty much inline with the car. I have transport wheels and tires and I use 10" long padded straps that I feed through the wheel slots then attach the ratchet tie downs to them at all 4 corners. Then I take the tranny out of gear, I never transport the car in gear.

G.
captndiet
Posts: 2
Joined: November 29th, 2015, 12:20 pm

Re: Help with Trailer Tie Downs

Post by captndiet »

I will probably go with the four d-ring route.

Thanks for the input guys.

Jeff
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