Bulb for Trouble Light

[Mad Dog Racing]

Working on a project in my attic. Burned out the bulb in one trouble light, the bulb in the other from my trailer has been used as much or more. Have 40-watt "rough service" bulbs to try to run them as cool as possible. Found no replacements at Walmart or Lowes, Sears had 100-watt for $4 each and Home Depot had 75-watt for $5 each. I ended up grabbing a couple of 40-watt fan bulbs labeled "vibration-resistant" to try to finish the project.

My question is, does anybody know if the new "green" flourscent twisty bulbs are any more shock resistant than regular fillament bulbs? They certainly run cool and last longer, but I don't want to pop one every time I lay the trouble light down. The new trouble lights seem to be using flourscent-type bulbs. Thanks.

[Veefan]

The florescent bulbs are a lot more shock resistant, they do not contain a wire filament to work or break. The florescent tube actually makes the gas inside the tube glow to produce light. I'd either switch to a florescent drop light to go to LED. I'm current using one from SEAR's and it's great, I've dropped it many times with no problems.

[hardingfv32-1]

I have had early failures using a florescent bulb near a frequently used a shop door (vibration during closing). There is a circuity in the base of these bulbs.

Brian

[Martinracing98]

The florescent bulbs are a lot more shock resistant

I have used these bulbs with a lot of success. I have knocked base off the bulb and put it back on and it still worked. My brother used on and it died the first night. Have I been lucky, or has he been unlucky? They are getting common enough that there could be getting junk items out there.

[neilcox]

I bought a rechargeable LED at Sam's for about $20 and love it in the attic, under the house and under the sink. Cool light, drop resistant and good battery life.

Neil

[jpetillo]

The fluorescents I've used in my standard droplight die just as easily as standard bulbs. But, I can run 100 W equivalent without burning myself constantly!

[fv87]

I have also had some trouble with the fluorescent lights. Again this weekend, slight drop-no light. LED's are probably the way to go anymore.

[kwillmorth79]

There is a small starter element in the base of all fluorescent lamps that will fail if the lamp is banged around. Most CFLs are simply not suitable for rough service. LEDs are far better for shop light use. I'd personally toss the incandescent stuff and replace it with an LED shop light. Price is right, lasts forever, can get wet, does not get hot, and won't go out if banged around, most are cordless. Also no chance of being showered in broken glass, etc.. This is a no-brainer.

If anyone has a 13W TT style fluorescent shop light, and has had trouble with replacement lamps burning out, I know how to fix that. The lamps need to be modified, which I will do for you. The mod cannot be done on the screw base style retrofit lamps, sorry.

I've been in the lighting business for 30 years, so have a library of tips and tricks for work lighting, trailer lighting, shop and work area lighting - let me know if I can help.

[Veefan]

I've used the same fluorescent shop light for over 10 years, drop it all the time and never replaced a single bulb. I guess I'm just lucky.

I also use one of these Craftsman Led lights, a little pricey but it gives off a lot of light.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473904000P

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[jb_11]

I find that the LED lights are durable and run cool, but the light is very discrete. Incandescents light up a much broader area. With LEDs you have to position light carefully to hit your work area.

[Mad Dog Racing]

Thanks for all the info. Finished the project for now using the fan light, dropped the light once but onto insulation so no real test. Other updates, went to another Lowes and they had both 75 and 100-watt rough service bulbs, still have not found them at the local one. (Buying a lot of electrical bits and had to piece together an adapter to add a light to a ceiling fan.) Also found a bunch of 100-watt GE rough service bulbs at a local hardware store for $1.50 - I asked and they were not mis-marked, so I bought two. One guy at Lowes helping me out on the ceiling fan stuff said there is a screw-in 110v LED that looks like a porkypine, but they don't stock them.

I will stay as far away as possible from anything with a battery, we don't get along. I have had three or four rechargable lights for emergency purposes and none have lasted past the first couple of charges. Same with cordless drills, the cheap one got tossed because the battery pack is no longer available and the B&D one is on it's third battery. It seems to work OK if I use it once a month, but when it sits six months, it takes eight hours to charge before use. I store it with the battery unplugged from the drill. I carry a small hand-crank yankee drill in the toolbox to change pop rivits at the track, it never needs a recharge.

Mad Dog