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Thanks Ed. I am going to try and get a centerline to measure with. I have a straight extruded aluminum tube that is 12 ft long I can use if I can just figure out where the center is. I knew it was possible the transaxle/motor might be off, but I think since the measurement to the trailing arm pickup...

Brian, thanks. Good point about the shim being less than the difference. I hadn't considered that. I'll shim to get it correct before I finish disassembling, then check again when I put all back together. I always had the wheels properly aligned, it was just off in wheelbase. The beam is straight bu...

As I tear down the car to rebuild it I remembered there was something that always bothered me about the alignment. As I recalled it the wheelbase was shorter on one side. So, I clamped a straight bar across the transaxle face and measured to the suspension points. The measurement from the transaxle ...

Thanks for the reply's. I'll post on apex as well. Brian, I had not thought it through very much, just thinking about it last night. What you said makes sense. I'll look at it again this evening and see if I can figure it out. It would certainly solve the problem of increasing my legroom without mak...

As I rework the old Zink, I'm trying to figure out a way to increase the legroom without making modifications that significantly modify the original design. I could fabricate a system with the steering arm facing forward like I remember the later Zink/Citation designs. This appears to be easy enough...

Perhaps a stupid question: What is the reason for speed readings? Just for interest? Or is there some usefullness to the data that RPM cannot satisfy?

Jean, I ordered the chrom moly since I plan to use the spindle reinforcement. I don't think the aluminum will handle the torque. If your not using the reinforcement the al would be OK I think, but you might as well get the CM. Not much different in price.

I went to my dads and picked up the remaining FV/VW parts. I brought both chassis that I started back in 1979/80 home. I can at least cut them up for some tubing to use around the garage 8) I will finish the new 2012 model :roll: A few pics: The youngest son trys on the first chassis (incomplete): h...

I never used fuses on the old car and I don't know anyone that did. Since I'm an electrical eng, I do understand the need for them. One problem is the outdoor use, in the rain, a problem area for keeping connections and fuse panels dry. It is something to be considered.

You make good points. I could deal with the chafing, entry/exit, and troubleshooting reasonably well. IF I were to run inside the tubing I would have the wire encased in an additional rubber tube for protection. I'm thinking of using my (design for now) 1.5 inch tube as the carrier and entry/exit is...

Scott,

Thanks for the graph. With your frame at 1.75 inches above the ground, are your trailing arms level, or somewhere else?

Regards,
Barry

While on the subject of wire (bigger is better ) , is there any reason not to run wire inside the chassis tubing? The only reason I can think of not to do it, is what happens in an accident when the tubing gets bent with the wiring getting pinched and shorted.

IIRC, there was an official VW picture with a double cab and FV. Seems like there were two trucks and cars in the pic.

Brian, that could be the case, Brazilian. I read several accounts by the off road guys that the delron would deform under load, something like that anyway.

Jean, no I haven't tried it yet. Need more time...

I expect to do it when I return, sometime in Dec. I'll post my results when I'm done.

Barry

Brian, apparently VW made some beams with a bushing instead of the needle bearings in the outer position, not one piece like the delron you refer to, but the same inner micarta bushing and an outer micarta as well. I've never seen a beam like that, but then I have not looked at a lot of beams. In my...

Jean, yes, sorry I meant to update this. I received the replacements from Cip1 and they are the correct items. They must be reamed to fit which is what I wanted. I have yet to install them as I'm rarely here these days. I'll be going out of the country Monday for the remainder of Nov. Hopefully when...

Rickydel, mine was built by Zink, not by Citation. It was probably one of the last of the type. I bought a Zink kit in early '73, destroyed that one, and then bought this chassis from John Gaither when he bought a new Z12 (Z12 I think). All of John's parts went on his new car leaving just the chassi...

Thanks Bob, Thy car is original, with the "improved" Zink Z bar, two shocks etc. It looks like it was parked in 1979 on jackstands and left. Which it was. :roll: A fan and shroud shouldn't be a problem although I don't have them at the moment. Looking at it today, the steering wheel is pre...

I have a Zink, C4 or Z4 maybe, not sure what it is called. It was the last model before the Z12. I think. Manufactured in '75 or '76 I believe. I need to verify when I find the logbook but it is somewhere in that timeframe. It replaced my original purchased from Zink in 1973. Pictures in this thread...

I am unable to find any in car video of the 2011 runoffs. Anyone know of any?

kidkoh, lots of people have painted their own race cars. Since we are speaking of FV here, it doesn't require a lot of paint. You can get the correct niosh respirator from eastwood for $20. I know, I have one. Just paint it outside. It's not a show car. You really don't need a clear, but you can. It...

Why do all the hard work (prep) and then wimp out on the easy part?

Go to harbor freight (or online) and order the $15 on sale sprayer, then purchase a paint kit from eastwood or others. It's really not that difficult to do unless you want a show car paint job.

According to what I've read, completely full or empty.

If you do a leakdown test you can usually detrmine the problem by where the air is exiting. "Hissing" in the intake is an intake valve, exhaust indicates an exhaust valve, and the crankcase indicates rings.